Tim's Motorcycle Diaries

Sunday 6 June 2021

Loud Pipes and Stunting Isn't a Reflection on the Vast Majority of Motorcyclists

Matt Galloway is the long-time CBC host with seventy-three thousand followers on Twitter and hundreds of thousands of listeners on CBC each day coast to coast to coast in Canada. He tweeted out tonight about the stunting and loud pipes echoing around downtown Toronto on this heat wave Sunday evening.

The police have obviously been given direction to not pressure vehicular traffic during the COVID19 pandemic but this direction has led to a small minority of riders and drivers abusing the situation in a city where no one can leave.

Why anyone would abuse this situation? It's a good question but one that motorcyclists in particular seem to have trouble answering. I read a lot of British bike magazines and there is a lot of push back against anti-social riding there too during the pandemic. When everyone is under the pressure of staying stationary, riding around like an asshole isn't a nice thing to do.

We live in a small town of less than ten thousand and yet I'm frequently unable to carry a conversation when the loud-pipe crew rolls by. I don't find this safe (loud pipes save lives!) or even considerate or reasonable. What it is is selfish and usually the result of someone with a massive inferiority complex making a statement about themselves.

What's particularly frustrating about Matt's tweet is that the kickback from the police will make life difficult for everyone on two wheels while also casting our sport in a negative light which will eventually result in even less people participating in our hobby at a time when less and less young people are bothering to get driving/riding licenses.

This isn't going to end well for anyone on two wheels. Grow up people and try and think about something other than your own gnawing inferiority complex.

3d Scanning a Motorcycle

Using a Structure Sensor I 3d scanned a 2010 Kawasaki Concours14 and cleaned it up in Meshmixer:

Kawasaki Concours14 3d Scan by timking17 on Sketchfab

The Structure Sensor is an old generation 1 device and isn't as high resolution as I'd like, but it gives you a general sense of shape and proportions. Meshmixer is free from Autodesk and does a good job of fixing up voids and missing bits in the scan.

This is the model in case you'd like to mess around with it.

Structure.io came out with a higher resolution second generation model that they offer a discount on if you send in your old one. It might be time to trade up. My dream is eventually to get a 3d scanner that is accurate enough to scan and reproduce old motorcycle fairings that are out of production in order to produce millimetre accurate OEM replicas to keep old bikes on the road with new plastics via 3d printing accurate reproductions.

The next step would be to scan a customer's fairings and offer customized options based on 3d modelling. It would be relatively easy to reproduce high quality copies of fairings with some interesting variations in design. Alternate cooling, MotoGP style wings and even craziness like a motorcycle fairing redesigned with dragon scales of made out of feathers are well within the realm of 3d modelling/3dprinting.

The customized fairing/3d printing direction hasn't been explored yet. Accurate 3d modelling would also allow a micro-manufacturing concern to reproduce the old plastic bits that are wearing out on bikes from holders and brackets to dash pieces. Because they're 3d modelled, this would eventually build a library of out-of-production parts that could keep a wide variety of bikes on the road.

I've been dreaming about this kind of digital forge/micromanufacturing company since 2015: http://tkmotorcyclediaries.blogspot.com/2015/11/iihtm-digital-workshop.html

Disney's Big Hero Six garage is part of the inspiration:

Wednesday 2 June 2021

Chasing Intermittent Tiger Stalling: Checking Motorcycle Electrical Systems

I'm starting to think the stalling issues I'm experiencing on my Triumph Tiger might be an electrical issue. The onboard computer isn't giving me any error codes, but when I rev it the lights on dash dim a bit, which shouldn't happen.

Motorcycle electrical systems are, like many aspects of motorcycling, a simplified and often more high maintenance version of what you see in a car where the extra space and size means you can make things modular, more self contained and cheaper to rebuild.

Instead of packing everything into an alternator running off the engine via a belt, motorcycles break things up to minimize drag on their smaller engines (belt driven systems suck a log of energy out of a small motor). A bike will typically put a generator inside the motor on the engine crank so if the motor is turning over the generator is using magnets to generate electricity from the spinning motion. This produces alternate current but, like cars, bikes generally use direct 12v current, so they need something to change the AC to DC.

Regulator/Rectifiers not only switch your power generation from alternating to direct current but they also regulate it so your battery is receiving a steady 14.5 volts on charge. A failing reg/rec can overcharge or undercharge your battery.

The flakiness of my situation (sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't) suggests that this is a connection issue. Before I start replacing parts I'm going to chase down all the connections, Dremel them clean and refasten everything properly. If I'm still getting stalls and weird light dimming I'll test components one by one until I've isolated the flakey bit.

I teach computer technology as my day job and a flakey power supply (which also converts wall AC to in-computer DC) can produce some very unusual and difficult to track problems in a computer. This feels like that.

There is nothing magic about how electricity works, but many people are really jumpy about it. I've found that a rigorous, step-by-step analysis will usually uncover even the flakiest of electrical failures. It will again here too.

RESOURCES

Analysing engine stalling in powersports motors

How to know if your regulator/rectifier is failing

How a motorcycle electrical system works

Various motorcycle charging systems (full wave/half wave)

MOSFET regulator upgrade

The regulator/rectifier (#7) at the top is under the seat next to the battery. I'm going to remove, clean and reinstall that.

The big parts on a bike's charging system are astonishingly expensive! Replacing an alternator with a quality rebuilt parts will cost you about $170CAD. To do the rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier on the Tiger would cost me the better part of two grand Canadian! Some of that might be old-Triumph price gouging, but it's ironic that all the online explanations describe motorcycle charging systems as built down to a price when it's clearly built up to one... on a mountain. But there are options...

Sunday 30 May 2021

How To Buy Used but Quality Motorcycle Gear Online

The last couple of weeks I've been keeping myself busy looking for motorcycle gear in the second hand market. If you've never looked before, there is an astonishing amount of kit out there being sold at a fraction of its new price, if you're willing to be patient and picky.

What prompted the first purchase was seeing a Teknic jacket that was a size down from my current one which is a bit too big. Teknic has ceased to exist so jackets like these are fading away. I like 'em because they come with my initials printed on them and they're usually pretty disco. I also find them very functional in a wide variety of temperatures and comfortable to use.

This grey camo/red one appeared on Kijiji for sale in King City, just north of Toronto. The GTA isn't where I'd usually choose to ride but the jacket seemed in good shape and he was only asking fifty bucks for it.

We met in the ride-share drop off at the 400 and the jacket was indeed in great shape - the seller's brother bought it, used it for a month and then it sat in a closet for several years. The zips were all in like-new shape and the jacket was unmarked in any way. The only issue was it didn't come with the liner but since I already have a TK jacket I can just use that one.

Those parking lots always creep me out a bit. They feel like places that have fallen into the cracks with empty cars slowly melting in the sun and zombie apocalypse levels of human activity. It always makes me wonder how many of those cars have undiscovered bodies in them.

The ride back across Caledon was nice. Lots of bikes out enjoying the spring, deep blue skies and scudding clouds; Harley riders arranging tow trucks for their bikes broken down on the side of the road, the usual sort of thing.

A lot of my riding wardrobe is adventure bike based but that look doesn't really suit the slick, shinkansen that is the Concours. Much of what I own is very tiger-themed (ie: ORANGE) too. Last week I was poking around on Facebook Marketplace, Facebook's attempt to take out Kijiji, when I saw a blue leather jacket for sale just up the road in Alma.

I finally got out to see it yesterday and it's a perfect fit. I had a Joe Rocket jacket (new) for my first bike jacket and it cost me over $200 and was their cheapest textile model. This leather one was their top of the line jacket from a few years back. The guy selling it had a serious bike accident some years back and never rode again so his kit sat in a closet gathering dust. This happens an awful lot. Don't rush out to buy brand new kit if you can be patient. Keeping an eye on the classifieds can net you some excellent, low mileage kit for a fraction of the cost.

New this model was nearly seven hundred bucks. It's a complicated bit of clothing with modular forearm panels and elbow pads, a back protector and quality leather construction. In less summery weather you can zip in waterproof outer pieces into the side panels/underarms and padded liner to make it cold-weather ready. For the summer you can zip out the armpit panels and you turn it into a mesh/leather jacket with really good ventilation.

It cleaned up nicely (mainly just getting rid of dust) with some leather treatment. The adjustability of this thing makes it fit very well. My other Joe Rocket was from their 'new rider' end of their line so I'd assumed that all their kit is built down to a price but this thing is special.

The owner was asking $150 for it and with every zipper like new, the liners all in excellent shape and not a mark on it (it isn't even really broken in), I paid him what he was asking. For less than the price of the mesh summer jacket I got on sale I've picked up two very low mileage, quality jackets.

If you're looking for motorcycle gear and especially if you aren't in a rush, spend some time keeping an eye on the used market and you might luck into just what you're looking in like-new condition for a fraction of the cost.

PLACES TO LOOK FOR USED MOTO-GEAR

Facebook Marketplace: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace

Lets you look by geographic location or further afield if you want. Because it's linked to people's verified Facebook accounts you tend to get fast responses and less nonsense. Since pretty much everyone is on FB you also get stuff for sale from people who are professional used sellers (like on Kijiji).

Kijiji: https://www.kijiji.ca/

One of the earliest online marketplaces. Users who have been on there for a long time know what they're doing but you run a higher chance of dealing with flakes hiding behind pseudonyms on there. Be more cautious if that's the case.

eBay: https://www.ebay.ca/

Can be good if you're looking for very specific things but then you end up dealing with people from far away and the subsequent dodginess and import headaches. Some people swear by it but I find it more trouble than it's worth.

Your Local Olde Fashioned Newspaper Classifieds: https://classifieds.wellingtonadvertiser.com/index.cfm (you'll need to look your's up)

If you're not looking for anything specific but might consider a surprise, you'd be amazed how often things pop up in your local newspaper that non-digital types have put up for sale. I've found astonishingly cheap project bikes in local papers that luddites are happy to sell for less if it means they don't have to use a computer to do it.

Kawasaki Concours C14 Farkles

Some Concours farkle shopping...

(Lightly) Tinted headlight covers: $40

The big googly eyes on the front of the Connie aren't my favourite styling aspect of the bike. These tinted covers claim to offer a less obvious googly-eye without making the lights useless at night. They also provide some protection from debris.

Corbin (heated!) seat for a C14: $711US ($864CAD)

This is the fanciest bike I've ever owned - this'd be the fanciest seat... with heat! The Corbin on the Tiger makes it all day comfortable.

They're awesome seats, but they ain't cheap, especially if you get the back rests with them, but if you want to do high miles, they're the tool for the job.

MRA X-creen Windshield: $265US ($322CAD)

Another Tiger cross-over. The MRA that came with it has been bullet proof and the transformable. The flip up spoiler all but disappears when you fold it down but does a great job of deflecting wind when up. On the Connie's F-14 style swing-wing windshield it would cover all possible combinations of windshield required and all but disappear when folded down in the lowest position. The smoked look doesn't look like the acres of clear plastic the stock one does either. These are sharp, well designed bits of German engineering.

Got this one done already, no regrets, it's a fantastic bit of engineering.

Speed Bleeders for clutch & brakes $38.68 ($46.56CAD)

Having wrestled with bleeding the hydraulic clutch, I can totally see the value in the Murph's Kits set of speed bleeders for clutch and brakes. Typical bleed nipples open when turned and can let air back into the system. Speed Bleeders have a valve in them that only allows fluid in but then prevent back pressure out so you have less headaches with air sneaking in.

If these lead to quick and easy regular maintenance of brake and clutch fluid systems then you end up with less headaches from contaminated fluid and internal damage to the system.

I've got them on order now - Murph only charges $15 for USPS shipping to Canada - I haven't received them yet but when I do I'll update with any additional costs.

NOTES & RESEARCH

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=288.0;wap2

https://forum.concours.org/index.php?forums/accessories-c14.78/

Ebay Concours farkle link

Trials Riding Wishlist

Trials Helmet in Gulf colours: $76

Trials helmets are specialists. They aren't designed for highspeed riding because trials bikes generally don't do high speed riding, but they are designed to let you breath freely while offering you maximum vision, especially down as you're picking your way over obstacles.

I'm a child of the 70's and the Gulf colours take me back to the mighty Ford GT40 race car dominating Le Mans. A good design article on this colour scheme is here.

'94 Fantic 250cc Trials Bike $2500

This lovely thing has been up for sale on Kijiji for some time. He's asking $2700 but I suspect I could talk him down a few hundred.

I'd actually prefer a basket case I could completely rebuild (and then paint in Gulf livery) but trials bikes are vanishingly rare and (like dirt bikes) strangely expensive. Maybe something better will come up that lets me do a full engine rebuild and restoration.

'01 GasGas TXT200 Trials Bike $3000

This one's a step closer to a project bike but newer and more expensive. It needs brake work and fork seals. The photos are terrible and it looks like it's been well used, but being newer it'll perform better than the 80's tech in the Fantic.

As a project this one isn't a complete rebuild but it does need some TLC.

There ain't no such thing as a cheap off roader. This beaten up old things costs almost as much as a brand new Chinese trails bike so it doesn't make much sense.

The Amateur Trials Association of Ontario

The ATA runs regular events throughout the riding season in Ontario. They have an active Facebook group and seem very keen to welcome new members.

They have Tenaci-Wong TWA150A 150cc new trials bikes for about $3500+ PDI/shipping/taxes on the FB group. That means a new adult sized trials bike is about four grand plus a few hundred more, which suddenly makes the abused and ancient things above seem like a bad idea.

The end of May event got pushed back thanks to Doug's on-again-off-again Ontario lockdown policy, but they're hoping to re-insert it into the end of June.

The ATA?ECTA schedule runs from the end of May to mid-October and offers a busy August of events. If I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive way to combine competitive sport with motorcycling, this might be the thing. I'm terrible at exercising just for the sake of it but given a reason to work out, I do. This might be just the thing to get my chasing fitness again.

A new Tanaci-Wong 150cc trials bike and competing in the ATA/ECTA events wouldn't cost much more than new hockey equipment and a season of beer league, and it would let me improve my bike riding skills. I also happen to have a backyard built for trials practice.

This one's on the to-do list.

That Darned Tiger: Stalling issues on a Triumph Tiger 955i

The Tiger worked for a couple of months this spring but started recently stalling again. The engine was getting rougher and any time I came off throttle quickly, such as downshifting, the engine would 'fall' right through where it normally idled and stall. If I didn't downshift and let it drop to idle on the clutch it wouldn't stall.

If you're familiar with the blog then you know this isn't my first dance with Triumph's early fuel injection systems. I've replaced the vacuum housing for the idle control system (a plastic piece that looks a bit under-engineered) and all the hoses and gaskets last year when chasing this thing, but looking over the deep winter maintenance I did I don't think I rebalanced the fuel injection after taking it all apart to clean it.

Balancing the FI on these 955i Triumphs is tricky because you have to take apart a lot of the bike just to get at the adjusters. I've been in and out of this so many times that I'm quick - I don't even have to keep the fasteners sorted because I know where they all go.

To balance the fuel injection on a 955i Triumph engine, take the fuel tank and airbox off. On the Tiger, if I put the fuel tank next to the bike the fuel lines are just long enough to connect so I can run the engine with the tank attached but off the bike.

I was going to use the Tuneboy to balance the injectors this time but couldn't figure out how to do it so just went back to good old-fashioned vacuum balancing.

Evidently you can balance throttle bodies off this but it jumps around so much I found it easier to use the vacuum balance I use for carburetors instead. Perhaps the Inj #1, 2 & 3 P/W can be used to balance?

The Triumph triple is quite easy to balance once you've pulled it all apart. The left side throttle (#1) isn't adjustable so you use it as your reference. With that hose plugged in I balance the one next to it to #1 and then did the same with the far one.

I got this TecMate Carbmate Synchronizer from Fortnine last year and it makes the job quick, accurate and easy. Just keep adjusting the screws between the throttle bodies until you have equal vacuum between them.

Don't balance two to three, just two to one and then three to one, so you don't need a non-existent three cylinder vacuum synchronizer. I ended up buying the extender so I can do up to four carbs, but it isn't necessary for the Tiger, though it did come in handy on the Fireblade.

It took me about ten minutes to get everything from way out of whack to right on the green balanced light on the CarbMate. Once I had it done the engine sounded less rough even with no airbox and missing sensors.

Running it like this pisses off the computer and throws up a whole bunch of warnings because you're not getting readings from the airbox sensor or the vacuum to engine management computer. If you don't have a Tuneboy to clear the computer errors it takes a few runnings for the ECU to reset itself. I just reset the errors in the Tuneboy system and then put it all back together again.

The bike immediately felt smoother and there were less backfires and hesitation when turning the throttle. I took it out today and went for an extended ride and couldn't get it to stall even when doing things that caused frequent stalls last week, like down shifting to a stop and pulling the clutch as the engine was dropping in RPM.

If you're having stalling issues with a Triumph 955i fuel injected triple, balance the throttle bodies before you start chasing other issues. Unbalanced throttle bodies cause stalling once the engine is hot.

I put some LockTite on the throttle body adjusters this time so hopefully it won't 'fall' out of adjustment again this riding season. I'm still very concious of rubber parts perishing on this nearly twenty year old high-mileage bike. Last summer's issues revolved around vacuum leaks in the idle control system so I'm going to keep a close eye on other rubber bits if I run into stalling issues again, but this time around it was just throttle body synchronization that seems to have done the trick. Maybe next time I can work out how to do it with the Tuneboy so I can get it even more precise, though the CarbMate seems to have done the job with high fidelity.