I dug deep into the C14 Concours today and the windshield is solved! I followed the shop manual diagram, but it actually points at the wrong bolt to remove the windshield motor housing. There is a tricky bolt underneath, but otherwise the rest are on the front and the whole unit comes out.
The three bolts at the top that connect the instrument bezel and two lower bolts hold the whole assembly in. You need to take the bolts out of the instrument bezel too, but you don't need to completely remove it or take the front body work off either. With bolts removed and the binnacle loose, you can slide the whole unit partially out, remove the power plug in the back and slide it the rest of the way.
With it out on the bench I cleaned all the connectors and also loosed the motor out of its housing and cleaned it all out as well. With the assembly out I could check the power coming and and both up and down were at battery voltage, so the relays, switch and back end of the circuit were all good.
Motor's on the left next to the big round thing. With the contacts cleaned and the motor reseated I gave it a go and off it went...
While it was out I greased all the components - it's very quiet when it runs. Nice, smooth action too.
***
With the front end solved and the fairing still off I figured I'd do an oil change. The parts came in from FortNine in only a couple of days. Mobil1 seems to have ceased to exist in the COVpocalyse, so I went with Motul for the first time. Before I even put it in the bike I was impressed with the pop-out spouts built into each bottle. WTH Mobil and Castol?
I didn't realize the 5100 was their mid-range oil but after seeing what came out of the bike I think I'll run this until the end of June as a cleanout and then switch to a fully synthetic oil. Motul's full synthetic is pretty expensive and with Mobil1 no longer available I'm going to use Castol Power1 4T, which still seems to exist and is working well in the Tiger.
The filter wasn't coming off easily and even the oil opening plug was ceased shut, so I don't know the last time this thing got serviced. The oil coming out was dirty but didn't have anything worrying like fuel or coolant in it, it was just very, very used. Those are hard drive magnets on the end of the filter if you're curious. They're super strong and keep any metallic detritus in the filter as the oil circulates.
With the bike now back to spec and the basic maintenance taken care of it's time to get this thing on the road! I'll sort out insurance this week and then figure out what's what with licensing with the 3rd wave running Ontario into the ground.
I took a couple of hours to work on this incredibly complicated machine on the weekend. My last project was a 1997 Honda CBR900RR Fireblade which was all about minimalism and lightness. That minimalism made the Honda a delight to work on but the C14 Concours is a very different animal. Incredibly, the Fireblade weighs 62% of what the Concours does while putting out only slightly less power. Man, did that bike know how to dance.
As I worked through the front end on the substantial Concours I found example after example of Kawasaki's overly engineered approach to the bike which has piled on the weight, but you can't fault their work, nor the design. While the C14 is an incredibly complicated thing, it's also a beautiful example of Kawasaki Heavy Industries industrial design.
The circular white thing in the photo on the left is the windshield motor. The C14 has an electric windshield that raises and lowers at the push of a button. This one isn't working but the mechanical parts of it seem ok so now I'm chasing wiring in a bike that makes a 747 look simple.
On the right is the battery holder. Any other bike I've owned makes do with a simple plastic open ended box, but not the Connie. It gets an interlocking two piece battery holder with built in wiring harness. The presses that turn these things our are something special!
These are all the gubbins the owner before me had wired into the bike. He had that massive horn hanging off the back and the GPS system was wired into the front and installed on the handlebar.
With the bike having electrical issues, I'm putting it back to stock before I start thinking about adding in the extras again.
While I was in at the battery I cleaned up all the connectors, some of which were quite rusty. It's things like that which will trip up electric windshields.
One of the advantages of fairings is that you can hide the mechanical bits underneath, but even when the bits are never going to be seen Kawasaki went overboard with its castings and finish.
That lovely little round clutch cover at the bottom lives under the fairing and would never normally see the light of day, but even then it's a wonderfully detailed and finished piece that only a handy owner or their own technicians would ever see.
Coffin shaped brake and clutch fluid containers? Why not.
The benefit of this engineering fixation is that the quality of materials used is excellent. Even though this bike is just over a decade old you wouldn't know it. Many parts of it look brand new. Rust on fasteners is all but non-existent and everything comes apart as it was intended.
This is the newest bike I've ever purchased (it's three years newer than my first bike and the KLX, seven years newer than the trusty Tiger and thirteen years newer than the Fireblade). It's so new that there isn't a Haynes workshop manual for it. It's the only bike I've ever owned that is still currently in production in much the same state. The latest Tigers are five generations passed my old 955i.
Next steps are to get the windshield sorted and change out the air filter while I've got the thing in pieces, then it all goes back together and I'll see if my local mechanic can get me in for a safety, then it's time to put some miles on it!
Fortnine is at $16 - save yourself a pile of $ if you're in Canada and use Fortnine! (Free shipping over $49 so the Amazon Prime shipping trap doesn't apply)
Air Cleaner Removal How-To:
Air Filter:
Kawasaki Part # 11013-0014
K&N # KA-1406
Now that I know where to look, yep, it's in there. The existing one might be the original (the bike only has 30k on it). It's dirty and a paper filter one so a K&N is on the way.
Engine Oil:
Engine Oil:Type: API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 Viscosity: SAE 10W-40 Capacity 4.7 L (5.0 US qt) Coolant Capacity 3.4 L (3.6 US qt)
Oil Filter:
KN-303 K&N OIL FILTER
Final Drive Oil:
Parts ordered from Fortnine after Amazon ended up racking up a bill that was almost twice as much! Don't fall for the habitual Amazon ordering that you've developed during the pandemic. It looks like Amazon sellers have been slowly raising prices to the point that they aren't even close to representative of what the market is offering. In some cases their prices are even higher than dealers!
I would have gone with Royal Distributing but they seem to be having trouble with stock and didn't have most of these parts on hand, whereas FortNine did.
$315 isn't cheap but this is everything I need to 'zero' the maintenance schedule so I know what went in and when. Based on what I'm seeing in the bike (spider nexts and cobwebs everywhere) this bike has been sitting for a long time without any regular maintenance.
The former owner was anxious about a coolant leak but I'm not seeing anything. The reservoir was low but the bike did get tipped over so it might have lost some fluid then. No leaks I can find. Same with the clutch and brakes. Fluid in both reservoirs was a bit low, but no evidence of any leaks, so I topped everything up and I'll keep an eye on things.
I also found the Candy Neptune Blue Kawasaki correct paint for the 2010 Concours from ColorRite. The beautiful, deep blue paint on the Concours C14 requires a base before putting the blue on top and then a clear coat to match the existing finish. The marks on the bike aren't particularly noticeable but this should cure them almost completely.
If you're looking for a 2010 on 'latest' model C14 manual, this'll work:
Video breakdown of how to get into the windshield motor on a C14 Concours:
"There are two relays (up and down) that are identical. They're on the bracket that blocks the air filter removal. Looking at them with the fairing off on the left side. They are the first two that look alike. I rather doubt that both of them are bad as you said it wouldn't work at all. If only one direction worked then you could swap relays to see if you could narrow down the problem to one relay."
There is a connector to the motor. Disconnect it and check the following:
+ - switch position standard voltage
green red Free 0
green red Up battery voltage
red green Free 0
red green Down battery voltage
"30 amp fuse for the windshield motor: I would start at the connector to the motor and work backwards if the voltages aren't there or right. Older model," but: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=10532.0
***
The long and the short of this is that I need to test the wiring and then jump the motor to see if it works. If it doesn't, taking it out looks like a pretty major operation, but then everything on the C14 looks like it's over engineered, which isn't a bad thing.
I can't believe how over-engineered the battery holder was! Heavy and much more complicated than it needs to be, but that's kinda the vibe of the bike.
Pneumatic Clutch Cover
The former owner thinks it's leaking, but it seems pretty happy (no drips under the bike). I'm going to torque it on properly to begin with and then keep an eye on it.
This have gotten fragile on this 11 year old C14 that's enjoyed 11 freezing Canadian winters followed by 11 boiling Canadian summers.
This kit from Amazon is automotive clips, but there are 50 in it that are a very close match to the Kawasaki part. The OEM clips are hard to find. For what that kit costs, I'm going to give it a shot and see if they work with it. If not, I have some handy clip removing tools and a pile of optional sizes for the future for not much money. The Kwak parts are $4US each. 50 of those (if I could find them) would be over 200 bucks, so I'll give the generics a shot.
Some of the louvred electronics pins have also broken (like I said, the plastics are starting to get fragile on this thing), so having a multi-pack is handy in other ways.
***
I'm just going to keep chucking GTR1400/C14 Concours/ZG1400 windshield details on here as I find them online.
The windshields on these seem to run into problems, especially if they're stressed while fully extended while operating at high speeds. I hope something on here gives you what you need to figure out the problem. COG members tell me the windshield motor assembly costs north of a thousand bucks, so this is a DIY situation (unless you've got thousands to chuck and an older bike).
The solution came in the 2015 model when the windshield came with a vent that reduces back pressure and stress on the unit. Putting in an aftermarket or updated stock windshield will probably help you avoid windshield motor headaches. It's on my to-do list for this bike.
•Shifting into first gear from neutral whilst stopped can illicit a 'clunk'. This is normal, but check your idle speed. It may have been set too high from the factory. Mine was set to 1800rpm.
•Do not overtighten the oil filter. You'll regret it when you try to remove it. Hand tight is fine.
•The 08-10 US models do NOT have oxygen sensors.
•When it's warm outside, bike on the side stand, tank nearly full or full, expansion may force gas/oily mixture out near the stand. Nothing to be concerned with.
•Check your battery installation. Some have been installed incorrectly. The + terminal should be on the outside.
•Periodically check the tightness of the battery terminals. They have a tendency to work loose.
•Headlight aim may be maladjusted. Mine were pointed straight down.
•The right hand mirror assembly may not be correctly mounted on the fairing. The mirror mounts within a recess in the right fairing. There have been reports of the mirror assembly being tightened down while not correctly seated causing cracks in the fairing (dealer issue if so).
•Flash to Pass (FTP) switch will cause the highbeams to come on during rain events. Dielectric grease slathered on the switch solder blobs will prevent this from happening.
•Check your exhaust header to manifold nuts. They have a tendency to loosen up over time. They may require tightening a few times before they stay tight. 13ft/lbs torque
•Check all your fasteners for tightness. Unless you have an exceptional dealer, this is typically overlooked.
•Check your oil level before accepting the bike from the dealer. The oil is checked with a sight gauge on the right side. If there isn't any oil showing in the glass with the bike level it needs to be topped off. Check your tire air pressures as well (42/42)
•Do not over-tighten the rear drive oil plug drain bolt. It strips out easily. It doesn't take a lot of force. Do not over tighten the fill plug either. You'll regret it.
•If you disconnect the battery, tire pressure indicator on screen will be blank until you ride it again
•If you are lucky enough to get your second FOB in a plastic baggy, you need to either write down the number on it or keep the baggy somewhere safe for reference purposes in case you lose it. Applies to the 08-09 models. Not sure if it applies to the '10s.
•Bike on center stand and rotating rear wheel. If you hear clicking, get it to the dealer to check it. We've been finding several issues: front spline dry; missing cir-clip on a joint: loose caps. http://forum.concours.org/index.php?topic=71444.0
christine@aeroflowscreens.com for an accurate shipping quote and ordering assistance
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=18400 suggests the Aeroflow is exceptional, but they don't ship easily to Canada (add $50US to the price) and cost $220US for the average size one. $331 for a windshield is steep. It's hinted that you can get small and tall screens but I don't want a sail on the front of the bike, just a smart windshield that doesn't overly stress the mechanism, provides reasonable protection and looks good doing it. That Aeroflow's webpage isn't secure and looks very amateur isn't convincing me to move in that direction. No pic because they don't have one on their site.
California Scientific seem to have it together. They give details on how to select the right size screen and their site is both informative and works. It's also HTTPS secure. The CalSci screen is nicely shape and comes in regular or super wide. It also has a back pressure relief hole in it. They're at $200US per screen. I'm in between a large and an XL on their chart but I think I'd go with the large as I don't want a sail in front of me, nor do I want it stressing the mechanics.
The National Cycle V-Stream seems quite common. FortNine has them too: https://fortnine.ca/en/national-cycle-vstream-windshield The details on it seem to suggest it's a quality thing. From FortNine I avoid all the trying-to-buy-from-a-small-US-business headaches and shipping is included. At $247CAD and with no customs or shipping surprises, it's also significantly cheaper than the other two. No venting for back pressure but it's a pretty thing that claims much improved wind protection without being a sail.
If you like watching someone hit things, this'll do it for you:
An MRA screen came with the Tiger and I'm a fan. They aren't cheap but they work well while keeping a low profile that wouldn't stress the motor. Good back pressure management too.
Twisted Throttle used to do Canadian orders without and faff, but now they're in USD and I'm worried about surprise costs for shipping and customs. They're already at $325CAD before any other surprises come into play.
Inside Dimensions: 9'6" x 5'7" x 4'8" (LxWxH) (will fit C14 easily) Back Door Opening: 5'1-1/2" x 4'1-1/2" (WxH) Bike might be a touch too tall (windshield removal?, angle it?) Deck Height from Ground: 2'5"
The Fireblade project motorcycle has moved on to its next owner. It had been sitting in a garage for the better part of a decade before I got my hands on it; the result of a bitter divorce. The fuel system was shot and had dumped gas into the engine. It had just over twenty-five thousand kilometres on it, but hadn't been used in a long time.
Over the winter of 2019/20 I rebuilt the carburetors, resealed and sorted the fuel tank and got a new petcock, all of which conspired to put the otherwise eager Honda back on the road again. When I checked the valves they were exactly in the middle of spec and some of the cleanest internal parts I've ever seen (thanks to the gasoline in the engine?).
Once the fuel system was sorted and the bike had a few sympathetic oil changes and other maintenance addressed (like new tires and a K&N air filter), it was licensed and put on the road where it performed flawlessly for a year. When I sold it the odometer read just over twenty-seven thousand kilometres, so two thousand of them were mine.
The 'Blade was a lovely device. If I didn't live in such a tedious place and ride-on track days were a possibility (they aren't anywhere in Ontario - the rare track-days that do exist are for rich people who trailer in race prepped bikes), I'd have hung on to this remarkable thing and let it do what it does best: explore the more extreme limits of motorcycling dynamics.
Trying to do that on the road makes no sense. Ontario's roads are in atrocious shape thanks to our brutal seasons and lack of sane governance. If you can find a piece that isn't falling to pieces, it's arrow straight because Southwestern Ontario is also geologically tedious. We had a Californian trip a few years ago and drove up to Palomar Observatory outside of San Diego in the mountains. Those are twelve miles of the most technically demanding roads I've ever seen. That I had to drive them in a rented Toyota RAV4 is a crying shame. If I lived anywhere near roads like that, owning the Fireblade would make some kind of sense, but I don't.
In our tedious, conservative province, this Honda Fireblade makes as much sense as owning a lion. In three seconds it can take you from a standstill to jail time. I only just discovered what happens to it at 8000RPM the week before I sold it. Up until then I was astonished at how quickly it accelerated, but if you keep it cracked the madness becomes otherworldly. The Honda Fireblade's athletic abilities make it a perilously expensive proposition in our police state and there is nowhere you can let it off leash to do what it was designed for (without buying a truck and trailer and stripping it back to being a race bike).
I was hoping to put racing stripes on it and really do it up, but then you have trouble selling it around here where individualism is frowned upon. Am I sad to see it go? I honestly wrestled with the idea of waving off the buyer and keeping it, but instead decided to aim my limited space toward another bike that would not only be more generally useful in the bland vastness of southwestern Ontario, but would also make me a better dad; the Fireblade is an inherently selfish thing.
If Practical Sportsbikes thinks it's the number one 90s sportsbike, then it is! They helped me sort out the fuel system!
I bought the sidelined 'Blade for $1000 and then paid an extra hundred to get it delivered to me. The new tires ($400) and a set of replacement carbs ($250) that I mainly needed to replace hard parts, along with the carb kit and other rubber replacement parts as well as multiple oil changes and filters, and some replacement LED lights for the broken stock ones, pushed my cost for the bike up to about $2000.
It cost me $500 for insurance for the year - mainly because I don't think my company (who doesn't usually do bikes but do mine because I've been with them for over 30 years) didn't realize what it was. I sold the bike for $2500 as is, though it's currently fully operational and road legal, which means I got to ride the best bike of its generation and something I wished I'd owned in university when I was younger, fitter and more flexible for no cost.
That (of course) doesn't consider my time, but this is a hobby and if I can make it a zero sum hobby then I'm much less likely to feel guilty about it. I'm going to miss the Fireblade, it was a lovely thing that spoke to me. Having a 23 year old Japanese super-model whispering in your ear as you ride along was thrilling and I'm going to miss it. Should I eventually find myself living somewhere where a sportsbike makes some kind of sense and where I can exercise it as intended on a track, I'll be quick to rejoin the tribe.
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In the meantime I contacted a fellow in Toronto who has a latest-generation Kawasaki Concours 14 that he couldn't sell in the fall (I was in-line but the 'Blade failed to sell so I didn't go for it). He still has the Concours and we're lining up a cash sale for next weekend. My first three bikes were Kawasakis and this would be my second Concours. I've owned a first gen C-10 and my son and I rode a first gen C-14 through the Superstition Mountains in Arizona, but this one's a gen-2 C-14 Concours, which makes it one of the only bikes out there that can comfortably carry my now-adult-sized son and I two up.
I've always been drawn to Kawasaki engineering and I like their style. This one is very low mileage (only about 30k) and needs some TLC (the owner is older and dropped it while stationary which is why he's moving it on). Once sorted this Connie will have a lot of life left in it.
What makes it particularly useful to me is that it's a capable sport-touring machine that's built like a brick shit house, can cover the endless miles we face in Canada and can still entertain in the corners. It also happens to be powered by the same motor that drives the ZX-14R hyperbike. It may sound juvenile but I grew up in the 1980s and they had me at Testarossa strakes!
One of the side benefits of Concours ownership is that they have one of the most active and engaging clubs around: the mighty COG (Concours Owners Group). I got stickered and t-shirted up with them as a full member when I got my first Connie, but have since been exploring other bikes. I'm looking forward to re-engaging with them when I'm a Concours owner again.
