Video breakdown of how to get into the windshield motor on a C14 Concours:
"There are two relays (up and down) that are identical. They're on the bracket that blocks the air filter removal. Looking at them with the fairing off on the left side. They are the first two that look alike. I rather doubt that both of them are bad as you said it wouldn't work at all. If only one direction worked then you could swap relays to see if you could narrow down the problem to one relay."
There is a connector to the motor. Disconnect it and check the following:
+ - switch position standard voltage
green red Free 0
green red Up battery voltage
red green Free 0
red green Down battery voltage
"30 amp fuse for the windshield motor: I would start at the connector to the motor and work backwards if the voltages aren't there or right. Older model," but: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=10532.0
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The long and the short of this is that I need to test the wiring and then jump the motor to see if it works. If it doesn't, taking it out looks like a pretty major operation, but then everything on the C14 looks like it's over engineered, which isn't a bad thing.
I can't believe how over-engineered the battery holder was! Heavy and much more complicated than it needs to be, but that's kinda the vibe of the bike.
Pneumatic Clutch Cover
The former owner thinks it's leaking, but it seems pretty happy (no drips under the bike). I'm going to torque it on properly to begin with and then keep an eye on it.
This have gotten fragile on this 11 year old C14 that's enjoyed 11 freezing Canadian winters followed by 11 boiling Canadian summers.
This kit from Amazon is automotive clips, but there are 50 in it that are a very close match to the Kawasaki part. The OEM clips are hard to find. For what that kit costs, I'm going to give it a shot and see if they work with it. If not, I have some handy clip removing tools and a pile of optional sizes for the future for not much money. The Kwak parts are $4US each. 50 of those (if I could find them) would be over 200 bucks, so I'll give the generics a shot.
Some of the louvred electronics pins have also broken (like I said, the plastics are starting to get fragile on this thing), so having a multi-pack is handy in other ways.
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I'm just going to keep chucking GTR1400/C14 Concours/ZG1400 windshield details on here as I find them online.
The windshields on these seem to run into problems, especially if they're stressed while fully extended while operating at high speeds. I hope something on here gives you what you need to figure out the problem. COG members tell me the windshield motor assembly costs north of a thousand bucks, so this is a DIY situation (unless you've got thousands to chuck and an older bike).
The solution came in the 2015 model when the windshield came with a vent that reduces back pressure and stress on the unit. Putting in an aftermarket or updated stock windshield will probably help you avoid windshield motor headaches. It's on my to-do list for this bike.
•Shifting into first gear from neutral whilst stopped can illicit a 'clunk'. This is normal, but check your idle speed. It may have been set too high from the factory. Mine was set to 1800rpm.
•Do not overtighten the oil filter. You'll regret it when you try to remove it. Hand tight is fine.
•The 08-10 US models do NOT have oxygen sensors.
•When it's warm outside, bike on the side stand, tank nearly full or full, expansion may force gas/oily mixture out near the stand. Nothing to be concerned with.
•Check your battery installation. Some have been installed incorrectly. The + terminal should be on the outside.
•Periodically check the tightness of the battery terminals. They have a tendency to work loose.
•Headlight aim may be maladjusted. Mine were pointed straight down.
•The right hand mirror assembly may not be correctly mounted on the fairing. The mirror mounts within a recess in the right fairing. There have been reports of the mirror assembly being tightened down while not correctly seated causing cracks in the fairing (dealer issue if so).
•Flash to Pass (FTP) switch will cause the highbeams to come on during rain events. Dielectric grease slathered on the switch solder blobs will prevent this from happening.
•Check your exhaust header to manifold nuts. They have a tendency to loosen up over time. They may require tightening a few times before they stay tight. 13ft/lbs torque
•Check all your fasteners for tightness. Unless you have an exceptional dealer, this is typically overlooked.
•Check your oil level before accepting the bike from the dealer. The oil is checked with a sight gauge on the right side. If there isn't any oil showing in the glass with the bike level it needs to be topped off. Check your tire air pressures as well (42/42)
•Do not over-tighten the rear drive oil plug drain bolt. It strips out easily. It doesn't take a lot of force. Do not over tighten the fill plug either. You'll regret it.
•If you disconnect the battery, tire pressure indicator on screen will be blank until you ride it again
•If you are lucky enough to get your second FOB in a plastic baggy, you need to either write down the number on it or keep the baggy somewhere safe for reference purposes in case you lose it. Applies to the 08-09 models. Not sure if it applies to the '10s.
•Bike on center stand and rotating rear wheel. If you hear clicking, get it to the dealer to check it. We've been finding several issues: front spline dry; missing cir-clip on a joint: loose caps. http://forum.concours.org/index.php?topic=71444.0
christine@aeroflowscreens.com for an accurate shipping quote and ordering assistance
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=18400 suggests the Aeroflow is exceptional, but they don't ship easily to Canada (add $50US to the price) and cost $220US for the average size one. $331 for a windshield is steep. It's hinted that you can get small and tall screens but I don't want a sail on the front of the bike, just a smart windshield that doesn't overly stress the mechanism, provides reasonable protection and looks good doing it. That Aeroflow's webpage isn't secure and looks very amateur isn't convincing me to move in that direction. No pic because they don't have one on their site.
California Scientific seem to have it together. They give details on how to select the right size screen and their site is both informative and works. It's also HTTPS secure. The CalSci screen is nicely shape and comes in regular or super wide. It also has a back pressure relief hole in it. They're at $200US per screen. I'm in between a large and an XL on their chart but I think I'd go with the large as I don't want a sail in front of me, nor do I want it stressing the mechanics.
The National Cycle V-Stream seems quite common. FortNine has them too: https://fortnine.ca/en/national-cycle-vstream-windshield The details on it seem to suggest it's a quality thing. From FortNine I avoid all the trying-to-buy-from-a-small-US-business headaches and shipping is included. At $247CAD and with no customs or shipping surprises, it's also significantly cheaper than the other two. No venting for back pressure but it's a pretty thing that claims much improved wind protection without being a sail.
If you like watching someone hit things, this'll do it for you:
An MRA screen came with the Tiger and I'm a fan. They aren't cheap but they work well while keeping a low profile that wouldn't stress the motor. Good back pressure management too.
Twisted Throttle used to do Canadian orders without and faff, but now they're in USD and I'm worried about surprise costs for shipping and customs. They're already at $325CAD before any other surprises come into play.
Inside Dimensions: 9'6" x 5'7" x 4'8" (LxWxH) (will fit C14 easily) Back Door Opening: 5'1-1/2" x 4'1-1/2" (WxH) Bike might be a touch too tall (windshield removal?, angle it?) Deck Height from Ground: 2'5"
The Fireblade project motorcycle has moved on to its next owner. It had been sitting in a garage for the better part of a decade before I got my hands on it; the result of a bitter divorce. The fuel system was shot and had dumped gas into the engine. It had just over twenty-five thousand kilometres on it, but hadn't been used in a long time.
Over the winter of 2019/20 I rebuilt the carburetors, resealed and sorted the fuel tank and got a new petcock, all of which conspired to put the otherwise eager Honda back on the road again. When I checked the valves they were exactly in the middle of spec and some of the cleanest internal parts I've ever seen (thanks to the gasoline in the engine?).
Once the fuel system was sorted and the bike had a few sympathetic oil changes and other maintenance addressed (like new tires and a K&N air filter), it was licensed and put on the road where it performed flawlessly for a year. When I sold it the odometer read just over twenty-seven thousand kilometres, so two thousand of them were mine.
The 'Blade was a lovely device. If I didn't live in such a tedious place and ride-on track days were a possibility (they aren't anywhere in Ontario - the rare track-days that do exist are for rich people who trailer in race prepped bikes), I'd have hung on to this remarkable thing and let it do what it does best: explore the more extreme limits of motorcycling dynamics.
Trying to do that on the road makes no sense. Ontario's roads are in atrocious shape thanks to our brutal seasons and lack of sane governance. If you can find a piece that isn't falling to pieces, it's arrow straight because Southwestern Ontario is also geologically tedious. We had a Californian trip a few years ago and drove up to Palomar Observatory outside of San Diego in the mountains. Those are twelve miles of the most technically demanding roads I've ever seen. That I had to drive them in a rented Toyota RAV4 is a crying shame. If I lived anywhere near roads like that, owning the Fireblade would make some kind of sense, but I don't.
In our tedious, conservative province, this Honda Fireblade makes as much sense as owning a lion. In three seconds it can take you from a standstill to jail time. I only just discovered what happens to it at 8000RPM the week before I sold it. Up until then I was astonished at how quickly it accelerated, but if you keep it cracked the madness becomes otherworldly. The Honda Fireblade's athletic abilities make it a perilously expensive proposition in our police state and there is nowhere you can let it off leash to do what it was designed for (without buying a truck and trailer and stripping it back to being a race bike).
I was hoping to put racing stripes on it and really do it up, but then you have trouble selling it around here where individualism is frowned upon. Am I sad to see it go? I honestly wrestled with the idea of waving off the buyer and keeping it, but instead decided to aim my limited space toward another bike that would not only be more generally useful in the bland vastness of southwestern Ontario, but would also make me a better dad; the Fireblade is an inherently selfish thing.
If Practical Sportsbikes thinks it's the number one 90s sportsbike, then it is! They helped me sort out the fuel system!
I bought the sidelined 'Blade for $1000 and then paid an extra hundred to get it delivered to me. The new tires ($400) and a set of replacement carbs ($250) that I mainly needed to replace hard parts, along with the carb kit and other rubber replacement parts as well as multiple oil changes and filters, and some replacement LED lights for the broken stock ones, pushed my cost for the bike up to about $2000.
It cost me $500 for insurance for the year - mainly because I don't think my company (who doesn't usually do bikes but do mine because I've been with them for over 30 years) didn't realize what it was. I sold the bike for $2500 as is, though it's currently fully operational and road legal, which means I got to ride the best bike of its generation and something I wished I'd owned in university when I was younger, fitter and more flexible for no cost.
That (of course) doesn't consider my time, but this is a hobby and if I can make it a zero sum hobby then I'm much less likely to feel guilty about it. I'm going to miss the Fireblade, it was a lovely thing that spoke to me. Having a 23 year old Japanese super-model whispering in your ear as you ride along was thrilling and I'm going to miss it. Should I eventually find myself living somewhere where a sportsbike makes some kind of sense and where I can exercise it as intended on a track, I'll be quick to rejoin the tribe.
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In the meantime I contacted a fellow in Toronto who has a latest-generation Kawasaki Concours 14 that he couldn't sell in the fall (I was in-line but the 'Blade failed to sell so I didn't go for it). He still has the Concours and we're lining up a cash sale for next weekend. My first three bikes were Kawasakis and this would be my second Concours. I've owned a first gen C-10 and my son and I rode a first gen C-14 through the Superstition Mountains in Arizona, but this one's a gen-2 C-14 Concours, which makes it one of the only bikes out there that can comfortably carry my now-adult-sized son and I two up.
I've always been drawn to Kawasaki engineering and I like their style. This one is very low mileage (only about 30k) and needs some TLC (the owner is older and dropped it while stationary which is why he's moving it on). Once sorted this Connie will have a lot of life left in it.
What makes it particularly useful to me is that it's a capable sport-touring machine that's built like a brick shit house, can cover the endless miles we face in Canada and can still entertain in the corners. It also happens to be powered by the same motor that drives the ZX-14R hyperbike. It may sound juvenile but I grew up in the 1980s and they had me at Testarossa strakes!
One of the side benefits of Concours ownership is that they have one of the most active and engaging clubs around: the mighty COG (Concours Owners Group). I got stickered and t-shirted up with them as a full member when I got my first Connie, but have since been exploring other bikes. I'm looking forward to re-engaging with them when I'm a Concours owner again.
The new hybrid Wrangler Jeep manages to get 50mpg while also being able to run entirely off battery for my entire commute to work. It's also tow capable and even stronger than the 21mpg of the base 4 cylinder model it's based on. It'll tow, it'll use barely any gas under normal circumstances and it's a genuinely useful utility vehicle that also lets you take the roof off and make driving an event.
Foldable Utility Trailer: $2500
An easy to load, multi-functional trailer that'll carry up to 2000lbs (3-4 bikes). The transformable nature of it means I could also hang it on the wall in the garage out of the way until it was needed.
They have bike-specific trailers too, but this one would handle bikes while also being a multi-purpose thing that lets me utilize my new utility vehicle in many ways.
Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours 14: $8500 low mileage and current spec. This would be the 2-up friendly tourer with sporting pretensions that would be a dependable regularly rider as well as the family friendly choice that could carry my wife or my son as pillion.
This one has a cosmetic scratch but is low mileage (35k kms) and would be dependable for years to come. As a big, functional, dependable 'modern' bike, this one checks all the boxes. I'd like to keep the older Tiger, but this bike would take the all-ways on demand for riding off it.
It comes with all the luggage, just had new tires put on it and has had major services done recently, so it'd be a no-headaches addition to the paddock that would take all the pressure off the old things.
My son and I did SMART Adventures again last summer and I did the whole nine yards: I started on a trials bike, gave the new BMW 1250GS a try and then finished the day trail riding on a Yamaha 250cc dirt bike. It was a brilliant day and I've been keen to find a way to keep practicing these skills but buying an off road bike in Ontario isn't easy.
This P.O.S. on Kijiji is a fine example. It's a 20 year old bike that the seller couldn't even be bothered to pick up off the floor for the photo. It's broken, not running and they still want over two grand for it! Dirt bikes get abused and then still seem to retain their value. I'm asking about the same amount for a safetied, perfectly running Fireblade super-bike from the same era and can't get a bite.
The other recent P.O.S. I looked at was this trials bike, which was ancient, technically uninteresting (being the year before they got good) and was being sold in better condition anywhere else except in Ontario for half the $1800 the owner wanted. It's not longer available. I can't beleive that he sold it, but maybe he did. People in Ontario are willing to pay a lot of money for money-pit projects.
The used market for off-road machines in Ontario is so psychotic that it almost makes sense to just buy a new one. A Suzuki DR200 brand new is less than five grand, so why on earth would you buy someone else's heaping pile of shit for the same amount of money? I can handle the weight so even the 50 kilo heavier DR650 is only a touch over six grand. I'm still kicking myself for not picking up that brand-new/old stock DR650 a couple of years ago.
I always thought I'd be rebuilding an old dirt bike from re-machining the cylinders all the way up, a complete rebuild, but the obscene pricing of dirt bikes in Ontario makes that unlikely.
Chinese engineering has come a long way in the last decade and harbouring old prejudices against it doesn't make a lot of sense.
In a perfect world I'd have that Tiger purring like a kitten, the Fireblade for dynamics focused rides, a C14 for two up riding and a trials bike for exercise and balance practice. Alas, these things would necessitate a bigger garage.
I'm reading Peter Egan's Leanings (highly recommended). He just did a ride down the Mississippi in the late 70s and it has me thinking about how to make that happen from Ontario (post pandemic, of course).
The first step would be to get over to the river. But we'd happen to trip over Duluth on the way there from where we live, and Duluth has something I've always wanted to see: Aerostich! The moto-gear company has been in Duluth since the early 80s and makes bullet proof riding suits, including one piece coverall type suits that long distance riders swear by. They are weather proof, tough, protective and built to size, which is good when you have a weirdly long body on relatively short legs. I'd kick off our ride down the Mississippi by dressing like matching Ghostbusters!
Map 1: Home to the head of the Mississippi is about 1850kms. I've been that way before and have always wanted to show my wife the strange world of the Michigan Peninsula. Our first day would only be about 420kms over the border to the Bay Valley Resort then a bizarre evening in fading 1970's decadence. Day 2 would be 540kms along the tunnel of trees and over the incredible Mackinac Bridge and into Northern Michigan. Day 3 would be 470kms over to Duluth along the south shore of Lake Superior. Day 4 would be a loop from Duluth to Palisade where we'd finally pick up the Mississippi and follow it down to Minneapolis.
From here on south we'd be sticking to the Great River Road as much as possible. The site suggests 4-10 days to make that ride, so I'd aim for 10, or more.
This is the kind of trip you could rush through if you were young and impatient, but I'm neither thing these days. In a post-retirement world this would be a good thing to kick off in the fall (October) and take extended breaks on the trip, getting into New Orleans just before Christmas and then staying around there until Mardi Gras in February. Doing it that way could allow for a winter in the south before working our way back up the Appalachians in the spring and home again.
The whole route is about six and half thousand kilometres. A three hundred kilometre a day average (some days off, other days over) means a 22 day trip. Cut that to a 200km/day average with more days off factored in and it's a 33 day trip, which isn't too heavy.
20 days down, an extended stay in the south in various places and then 20 days back in the spring would make for a thoughtful perambulation of the Mississippi watershed and the Appalachians back north. It would also let me avoid the part of Canadian winter that is most painful (the part we're in right now), where from the end of January to March it's so bone achingly cold, grey and miserable that it feels more like Ragnarok than one of the four seasons. Canadian winter has a depth to it that tears the soul. A thoughtful ride down through the complicated American history around the Mississippi would be a good way to escape it.
I'm still looking at a two-up option and the C-14 Concours is still on my short list. It has one of the highest load carrying capacities of any motorcycle (Goldwings and the like included), has a a low maintenance shaft drive and can still show surprising athleticism and agility when the roads get interesting.
This one is 9 years old, only has 36k kilometres on it, which for a Kawasaki means it's just broken in. This lovely thing wouldn't just handle the long distance, but would make the twisty bits down the river and back up the Appalachians not feel like we're trying to fit an elephant in a tutu.
One of Peter Egan's articles in Leanings is an answer to the age old motorcyclist's question: how many motorcycles is right? Egan's list follows his own interests in the sport. His suggestions are:
a sportsbike for short, focused rides that are all about dynamics
a sport touring bike for spirited long distance riding
an off road bike (though this could be a bigger dual sport or adventure bike, not just a dirt bike)
a Harley for long distance 'Merican Dream type rides
an old nostalgia machine that takes you back to a bike you couldn't afford when you wanted it
He suggests that more than five bikes is too many and you end up with them going stale and getting covered in dust or getting so few miles they get musty. Collectoritus is another thing,but if you're a rider with a working stable, five's the limit.
I've had a crack at the bike stable before, though Ontario's craptastic insurance system makes that more frustrating than exciting. There are a couple of Peter's choices that are very specific to his interests that I think I can cut or clump into efficiencies.
The easy drop for me is the Harley. I'd combine the touring with sport-touring in a Kawasaki Concours 14 that is big but athletic and can carry more weight two-up than a Harley anyway and with suspension and serious performance.
Shaft drive means it'd be a low maintenance device and, being a Kawasaki, it would run more or less forever. We rode a previous generation one in the Arizona desert and it was brilliant; powerful, comfortable two up with luggage and surprisingly agile in the twisties, just what I'm looking for.
I figured that the sportsbike thing would get sorted with the Concours, but the Fireblade has changed
my mind. I don't need a brand new digital weapon. Something light weight and minimalist would do the trick.
The 'sportbike' is more a 'cornering dynamics bike' - the point of it is to go on engaging rides where you're riding to ride rather than get somewhere, so a naked bike could do the job too. To that end, if I had my choice I'd look for a naked alternative as it'd be easier on my old bones, though for anything up to 90 minutes I'm fine on the 'Blade, so I'm not in any rush to swap it out. The naked bike I've always had a thing for is the Kawasaki Z1000 with it's anime like sugomi styling. If it was a cost-no-object thing, I'd have a Z1000 in the most lurid orange I can find in the garage.
The dirtbike thing is another one of those opportunities to splice together a bike that'd do many jobs. If you really wanted to condense things you could take the sports touring, touring and off-road categories and combine them together in something like the spectacular new BMW 1250GS that I rode last summer at SMART Adventures Off Road Training.
But as I get better at off road riding I realize what a compromise a big adventure bike is in really doing it. Like the SUV that proceeded them, ADV bikes are so expensive and heavy nowadays that, while they might handle a bit of gravel, they aren't useful for trail riding or anything like off roading in more than an unpaved road kind of way. I like the idea of getting deep in the woods and I like things that aren't so special that you're always worried about scratching them. I wouldn't want to think about one falling on you in the woods.
This Honda 600XL came up last week on Kijii for under two grand. I'm a sucker for that colour scheme and the gold rims - very 1980s. Having something that old and simple would be nice to work on and straightforward to maintain, even if I wanted to get down to complete engine rebuilds.
It might be a bit too old for what I'm looking for as its function would be to get beaten up in the woods so something newer would be better, but that colour scheme...
Back in 2019 I went and looked at a Suzuki DR650 that had been purchased by a local farmer as a field bike. He had a heart attack and died shortly after bringing it home and it sat in his barn for four years with no kilometres on it. His wife was selling it for $4000 and I still regret not picking it up, basically a brand new machine (albeit one that's sat for a while) for 60% the price of a new one.
Something like that would be light and capable of trail riding while also being dependable and not so precious that a scratch would wind me up.
At the end of the day, if space wasn't an issue in my wee garage and Ontario's insurance system wasn't so nasty, I think these would be my five:
Athletic Distance Machine: (Kawi Concours14)
Dynamic Rider: (Fireblade, Z1000, or another light weight sport or naked machine)
Adventure Bike for Canadian Exploration (roads suck here, even if they're paved, and they often are suddenly not. An ADV bike will cover the rough over long distances)
Dirt/Trials Bike (a pedigree machine for intentional deep woods trail riding)
Revolving Door Bike (project, by and sell, experience something new bike - sometimes even a Harley!)
