Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 2.4 - Cams out, shims measured!

 After what seems like weeks of disassembly (because it has been), the C14 valve job is finally turning the corner back towards reassembly! I'm pushing to get it around the corner because even with all of this documentation I still want to have muscle memory of how it came apart when I put it back together. Today the cams came out along with the shims and everything got measured, so it's time for some maths!

The process of taking the cams out is pretty straightforward, but like everything else has twice as many fasteners and bits to it than you'd expect.

These oil pipes all have to come out. They're only held in by o-rings but were a struggle to release (you can imagine the heat cycles the o-rings in there have been through). What seemed to work best was (very carefully) getting a slot screwdriver down at the base and gently freeing it.

Caps off revealing the cams. With the tensioner removed (notice the slack in the chain) you can slip the cams out from under it.

The oil pipes (top right), cam chain tensioner (bottom right), intake (bottom) and exhaust cam shafts, and then the four caps and hardware (top left in the order they came out with fasteners included).

...and finally, I'm at what this whole production has been about: the shims under the cams. The caps are suctioned in with oil, but if you give them a turn by hand the magnet picks them up easily - the shims are underneath.

What the gaps are supposed to be: SPEC: exhaust valves 0.19 - 0.24mm Intake valves 0.12mm to 0.17mm.

red = tight, white = spec, pink = on the cusp of tight: most are tight so will need slightly shorter shims to make a bigger gap, but we're talking fractions of a milimeter here.

              Cyl 1                  Cyl 2                Cyl 3                Cyl 4

Gap   0.18   0.18         0.2    0.19       0.19    0.19       0.19   0.21

Shim  2.27  2.22          2.29  2.29       2.30    2.30        2.30    2.23

Gap  0.15   0.14         0.13    0.13     0.10   0.13         0.11   0.12

Shim 2.25  2.20          2.22  2.20       2.30    2.25        2.20    2.25

Here's the calculator (I just threw it in a spreadsheet):

They look like they do them in 0.05mm sizes. Let's see if I can do this in my head.

Cylinder 1 Exhaust 1 needs a 2.20 and a 2.15 (I'm going smaller because everything was tight and a smaller shim means a bigger gap). 2.20mm would mean the 0.18 gap becomes a 0.25 gap (too wide). A 2.25 shim only gets me 0.02 back and makes the 0.18 a 0.20 gap (in spec but up the tight end). C1 Exh 2 2.20 gets me 0.20 (spec but up the tight end - but maybe that's as close as I can get).

Exhaust

C1 E1: 2.25 (0.20 gap)      C1 E2: 2.20 (0.20 gap)

C2 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap).     C2 E2: 2.25 (0.23 gap)

C3 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap).     C3 E2: 2.25 (0.24 gap)

C4 E1: 2.25 (0.24 gap)      C4 E2: 2.20 (0.24 gap)

Intake

C1 I1: at spec                    C1 I2: at spec

C2 I1: at spec                    C2 I2: at spec

C3 I1: 2.25 (0.15 gap)       C3 I2: at spec

C4 I1: 2.15 (0.16 gap)       C2 I2: 2.20 (0.17 gap)

Shopping Canadian is Harder Than it Should Be

The kits aren't helpful - I'd be paying for a pile of shims I don't need and they only come with 3 in each size, so I'm stuck there too. They also only come in 0.05mm gaps. Following the above logic I should buy 2.25 x 7, 2.20 x 3 and 2.15 x 1. Let's go have a look at a Canadian option: https://fortnine.ca/en/pro-x-valve-shim-refill 

At $15.78 a pop I'm looking at a salty ~$170+ plus taxes, but (of course) they barely have any in stock so even if I wanted to pay through the nose it's still a no go. Looking through other makes on there, they all look to be out of stock. So much for buying Canadian.

Let's try another one: Parts Canada: 

0926-1391: 215mm x 1  0926-1392: 220mm x 3  0926-1393: 225mm x 9

...but Parts Canada doesn't sell online and seems to work out of people's garages which doesn't fill me with confidence.

This got the thumbs up on the GTA motorcycle group:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/pro-x-valve-shim-p?v=9115

And they're on it - and even have half sizes! So now I can touch up my gaps better.

Here we go again:

Exhaust 

C1 E1: 2.225 (0.225 gap)   C1 E2: 2.175 (0.23 gap) 

C2 E1: 2.25   (0.24 gap)     C2 E2: 2.25 (0.23 gap) 

C3 E1: 2.25   (0.24 gap)     C3 E2: 2.25 (0.24 gap) 

C4 E1: 2.25   (0.24 gap)     C4 E2: 2.20 (0.24 gap) 

Intake 

C1 I1: at spec (.15)              C1 I2: at spec   (0.14 gap)

C2 I1: 2.20 (=0.16 gap)        C2 I2: 2.175  (=0.17 gap)

C3 I1: 2.25 (=0.15 gap)        C3 I2: 2.225  (=0.16 gap) 

C4 I1: 2.15 (=0.16 gap)        C2 I2: 2.225 (0.16 gap) 

14 out of 16 valves need shims.

2.225 x 3, 2.175 x 2, 2.25 x 6, 2.20 x 2, 2.15 x 1 (total of 14)

Under $30 US. Even with the conversion, shipping, customs (and now tarrifs), I'll still be miles ahead. The site is a joy to use, they sell individually AND at a higher resolution than anything I could find in Canada. I'm book marking https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ 

I'm going to calibrate the digital measurement tool I'm using by checking that the existing shims are 9.48mm diameter. It seemed close by eye but at fractions of a milimeter eyes aren't much good. I found the number changed depending on how I hold it, so if I can figure out which is the most accurate way, I'll use that when I do the confirmation measurements (measure twice cut once etc).

Where the cam chain tensioner is, in case the super close up in the shop manual proves unhelpful (as it did with me). 2 x 8mm bolts and it springs free. Reinstallation involves taking the tension off so you can align the chain.

New caliper is consistent which makes me trust it more, so I went with the new numbers.

New caliper. It consistently reads the same, which the other one didn't. It give me more confidence in the results. Here are the new numbers with Rocky Mountain's best shim fits:

I like to get my head around the maths so I backed up all the new measurements by visualizing the gaps they would produce - all nice and well within specs.

Just put the order in with Rocky Mountain. With FexEx and customs I'm under $75CAD all in. So I'm getting the right sizes and just what I need for well under half what it would have cost me to buy less accurate choices that aren't in stock anyway in Canada. How do we get this so wrong?

Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 2.2 - the cams are coming out

 I was (of course) hoping that the valves would all be in spec, but after a first round of measurements that is (of course) not the case, so this open heart surgery is going a step deeper: the camshafts are coming out. No point in getting in this far unless I sort everything while I'm in here.

Concours 14/1400GTR exhaust valves need to have between 0.19mm and 0.24mm of clearance. The intake valves need 0.12mm to 0.17mm. Looking at the notes below, I'm out of spec (tight) on most of them, making me wonder if anyone has ever been in here before. This one has 45k kms on it but it was semi-dormant when I found it. Most of the mileage was done in its first five years then it sat a lot. Alas, this is probably the case for most bikes.

Looking at this with red being too tight, white being in spec (anything on the edge I made pink), it's clear that C14s get tighter as they go: 

              Cyl 1                         Cyl 2                          Cyl 3                         Cyl 4

    EX  0.18   0.18               0.18    0.19                  0.19   0.19                0.19   0.22

    IN   0.14   0.14               0.14    0.14                  0.09   0.11                 0.11   0.12

Now that I've got a round of measurements, I'm going to do it all over again (that's what the pink notes are at the top of the handwritten bit above - the second round). Measure twice cut once and all that.

I hope to have confirmed everything this week and then I'll order shims to get everything in the sweet spot.  Or not...

It was -35 with windchill (-22C actual) last night. Will be again tonight, so I'm not going into the bloody garage!

Incredible that 5% of one millimeter is the resolution this machine works within, but what amazes me more is that even at a fraction of a millimetre I'm still sticking a bit of metal (like a caveman) in to measure these fine details. Why don't motorcycles make use of the mechanical precision used in car engines for the past quarter century and automatically adjust valves? Good question.

Like a caveman...

The middle ones are tricky to get to and the covers and various plumbing don't help even on the edge cylinders. That Moto Guzzi is looking more and more appealing, though it won't be the rocketship that the Kwak is.

Cam timing cover off to spin the motor and line up TDC for cylinders 1 and 4 which lets you check all the clearances.

Note the mark on the left side of the wheel where the cover gasket goes on - that's your timing mark.

The plumbing over the cams is something else.

The 0.127mm feeler gauge doing the business between the cam and that shim underneath. Replacing the shim with a smaller one puts the gap back in spec.

Using the bent and tapered bits I double checked each space. And will again before I commit to buying shims.

Kawasaki C14 Concours / 1400GTR Valve Adjustment Research Part 2

The last post included online research on getting into the C14 to resolve an oil leak and check the valves. Inline four cylinder engines are a nightmare for valve checks with everything buried deep in the bike between the frame and lots of valves to check. Getting into this has me dreaming of a Moto Guzzi or BMW with sticky outie cylinders that make this sort of regular maintenance easy. On the upside, the C14 only needs the valves checked every 25k or so.

Of course those twin options don't have anything like the performance of the 1400GTR. I had to remind myself that this is a performance machine. I enjoy being on the fastest thing in a hundred kilometers and you have to put some time in on it to keep it purring.

The Concours Owners Group is well worth connecting with if you find yourself with-Concours (I joined and got the t-shirt). You get gems like this from COG's tech pages. Corrections to the shop manual - pretty handy!

First time valve check:

https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/first-valve-adjustment.53783/https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/first-valve-adjustment.53783/

"The job is not difficult but is tedious and no short cuts are advised." - indeed.

Shims: https://fortnine.ca/en/pro-x-valve-shim-refill about $15 each (!)

 9.48mm diameter shims

Can't buy them at the dealer which leads many people to wonder how the dealer does valve adjustments (or if they just say they do) when a job like this can cost well over a grand with 8+ hours in it.

Valve Clearance Check Video #1 from Moto-Resto Machine & Repair on YouTube: https://youtu.be/RvQjEvCSGvI?si=L56j3YAc2c4cIye7

Keep the slider handy to dodge around how his dog is doing or when he's going to get groceries and you get the whole process.

The series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvQjEvCSGvI&list=PL1oMvckfLIJGzkYHWXiDk8kN_IOBSI3jT

Chattier and off topic more than I like in a video, but he does get into the thing. Valve cover comes out the right side after removing a f**ton of bits and pieces. Bag 'em and tag 'em indeed! Looks like the radiator and fuel tank don't go anywhere (you access the top of the engine from the sides).

Lots of people saying it's time consuming but not difficult. Pace yourself and stay organized seems to be the most common advice.

• do this in stages
• don't rush
• take notes and many photos so you have an outside chance of getting it back together again
• have a big sheet to put bits on
• have ziplocks and a marker handy - bag 'em and tag 'em
• first time is likely 10+ hours, second time is half that, but after the first one they seldom go out again (!)

I'm OK if this is the only time I ever do this on a C14. 😊

Other Concours 14 Engine Technical details:

Items ZG1400CA ∼ CD, ZG1400DA

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @1 100 r/min (rpm)

Spark Plug NGK CR9EIA-9

Cylinder Numbering Method Left to right, 1-2-3-4

Firing Order 1-2-4-3

Valve Timing:

Inlet:

Open 17° (BTDC)

Close 75° (ABDC)

Duration 272°

Exhaust:

Open 52° (BBDC)

Close 22° (ATDC)

Duration 254°

Lubrication System Forced lubrication (wet sump with cooler)

Engine Oil:

Type API SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2

Viscosity SAE10W-40

Capacity 4.7 L (5.0 US qt)

Adjustment Shims

Thickness     Part Number    Mark

1.750             92180-1212    –25

1.775             92180-0221    –23

1.800             92180-1211     –20

1.825             92180-0222 –18

1.850             92180-1210 –15

1.875             92180-0223 –13

1.900             92180-1209 –10

1.925             92180-0224 –8

1.950             92180-1208 –5

1.975             92180-0225 –3

2.000             92025-1870 0

2.025             92180-0209 3

2.050             92025-1871 5

2.075             92180-0210 8

2.100             92025-1872 10

2.125             92180-0211 13

2.150 92025-1873 15

2.175 92180-0212 18

2.200 92025-1874 20

2.225 92180-0213 23

2.250 92025-1875 25

2.275 92180-0214 28

2.300 92025-1876 30

2.325 92025-0215 33

2.350 92025-1877 35

2.375 92025-1058 38

2.400 92025-1878 40

2.425 92025-1982 43

2.450 92025-1879 45

2.475 92025-1983 48

2.500 92025-1880 50

2.525 92025-1984 53

2.550 92025-1881 55

2.575 92025-1985 58

2.600 92025-1882 60

2.625 92180-1059 63

2.650 92025-1883 65

2.675 92180-1194 68

2.700 92025-1884 70

2.725 92180-1195 73

2.750 92025-1885 75

NOTE  There are two kinds of marks [A] [B] in the shim.

Kawasaki C14 Concours / 1400GTR Valve Clearance Research & Resources

 

Research

Concours 14 parts: https://www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/parts/2010/ZG1400CAF

Fuel tank sits on the frame:

Cylinder cover parts and diagram. Isn't that fantastically complicated?

The battery box slots into the side of the frame. Not sure if I have to remove it to get to the cylinder head. Honestly, with that much frame around it, how on earth do you get into the valve cover at all?

Airbox diagram: it slots into the frame on the other side from the battery. Again, not sure if that all has to come out.

Based on what I'm seeing here I need to take a lot of photos as I dismantle and keep everything on a clean sheet in order next to the bike so I have a chance of getting it all back together again. Organization will be key!

***

Hints at problems with sealing the new gasket? https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/valve-cover-gasket.53892/

Murph's Kits parts: https://murphskits.com/c14-valve-adjustment-kit-1/ promises to provide all the bits you need (that the dealer parts counter guy won't bother to tell you about):

Oil leaks become an issue unless you replace all the o-rings as well as including a new gasket? Might as well change the spark plugs and fuel filter while in there.  Ends up being $338 (CAD) for all of it, plus another forty bucks in shipping - still much cheaper than parts from the local dealer and with helpful additions so I'm not left with a leaky mess. I've got Murph's Kit bits all over the C14 and trust them. The set is ordered.

***

Good list of parts numbers for C14: https://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1650.0

2010 C14 Service manual - 99924-1431-01

AIR FILTERS
Air Filter Element - 11013-0014
BMC Air Filter - 466/04
K&N Air Filter - KA-1406

Fuel
Fuel Pump filter/strainer/whatever 49019-0013. From a 2013 Kawasaki 750 side-by-side (not sure what they are calling it).
Fuel Pump O-ring - 670E5075
Fuel pump (fuel pump housing would need to be disassembled) http://www.fuelpumpfactory.com/Kawasaki-fuel-pump-Concours-14-s/6323.htm

WASHERS & Push Rivets
Final Drive Crush Washer - 92022-1086
Final Drive O-Ring for Filler Cap - 92025-1735
Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer - 92065-097
Water pump coolant drain crush washer - 92200-0498 Adept Power Sports

Fairing screw nylon washers:
5.3mm ID X 11.5mm OD X .5mm thick - 92200-0006
10.4mm ID X 19mm OD X .5mm thick - 92200-0157

Windshield mounting screw nylon washers:
10.3mm ID X 17mm OD X 1.0mm thick - 92200-0380
Nylon Push Rivet (two sizes) - 92039-0051 & 99039-0051
Push rivet under the windscreen - 92039-0048
Motosport.com Bolt Brand 6mm Nylon Push Rivet - 2005-6RIV (These may not work)
Balkamp part number 665-1446 (pkg of 9) available at NAPA for (rivet 92039-0051)
Hillman push-in Nylon Rivet - 1/4 inch H#881216 (Lowes) barcode 0823671607, for the top of dash
Grainger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Push-In-Rivet-5MUF8 (not sure if these fit)
Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Fender-Rivets/dp/B0039LEU0I (not sure if these fit)


MC OIL FILTERS Designed for the bike
Kawasaki 16097-0004
K&N KN-303
Mobil1 M1MC-134 (crosses to a K&N KN-303)
Hiflofiltro HF303/303C
Amsoil EaOM103
Emgo 10-82222
Fram PH6017A
Parts Unlimited 010035X

Oil Filters others use (other than OEM fitment - use at own risk)
A/C Delco - PF2135
Amsoil - 24942 (I think this is a Wix filter)
Napa Gold - 1358
Napa - PS1358 (black and costs less)
Purolator ML16817 (made for MC, not sure if it fits our bikes)
Purolator Pure One - PL14610 (Note: The Purolator website does not recommend using cage filters on MCs)
Purolator Pure One - 2.5"- PL14612 (Note: The Purolator website does not recommend using cage filters on MCs)
Wix - short: 51358; long: 51356
Champion 7317 (same as SuperTech)
Mobil 1 M1-110

BULBS
Tail License Plate Bulb - 92069-1055, 5007, R5W (5 watt)
Front/ Rear Turn Signal Bulbs - 92069-1125
Turn signal bulbs are 7507A bulbs (BAU15s base)
Headlight Bulb 12V-60/55W - 92069-1002 (standard H4)
Small headlight Bulb 12V/5W - 92069-1016
City lights are either a 2825 (5w) or a 2886 (6w)
City lights (LED, inverted cone, white) 194 or 168

Switches
SPST Waterproof Miniature Rocker Switch (On-Off) 16A Green 12V (also available in red) .921" Long x .685" Wide x .551" Deep Part Number: NTE-54-204W $5.40 each https://shop.vetcosurplus.com/

TIRES/Wheels
Front Tire Size - 120/70ZR17
Rear Tire Size - 190/50ZR17
Front bearing seal (08/09) 92049-0050
Rear bearing seal (08/09) 92049-1061
Wheel Bearings (F) - 6005UU oem, or 6005 2RS1 or 6005 2RSH (SKF replacement numbers)
Wheel Bearings (R) - 6304UUC3 oem, or 6304 2RS1 or 6304 2RSH (SKF replacement) the "C3" designation is a standard for precision, SKF bearings are normally C3 unless specified otherwise...
Rear Wheel Bearing All Balls - 25-1353 (Comes with one seal - you need one kit - it has two bearings)
90 Degree retrofit valve stems for the original tire sensors: Honda part VALVE ASSY., RIM 42755-MCA-R31 2014 Goldwing

Steering
Steering Stem Bearings - All Balls Racing -Tapered roller bearing and seal kit for steering stem (steering head) C-14
Part No. 22-1039 Cost: $47.95 http://www.allballsracing.com/

BRAKE STUFF
Front pad Assembly - 43082-0071 (2 EA) (08-09)
Front pad Assembly - 43082-0112 (2 EA) (2010)
Rear pad Assembly - 43082-0055 (1 EA)
Rear brake pads - EBC FA254 (Kevlar) or FA254HH (Sintered)
Front brake pads - EBC FA417/4HH (Sintered)
Front pads - Ferodo FDB2220ST (mcstuff.com p/n 454-1071, requires two sets)
Rear pads - Ferodo FDB2111P (p/n 454-2682) (evidence is these don't last as long or bite as well as other brands)
Carbone Lorraine - 1177SBK5 (front x 2), 2813RX rear
Front ABS brake line - Galfer SS FK003D625-3
Caliper rebuild kits - https://brakecrafters.com/product/caliper-seal-kit-bcnr0036/

Engine Parts
Spark Plugs - CR9EIA replaced by CR9EIA-9, gap .036 IRIDIUM!
Valve cover gasket - 11061-0263
Pulsing Cover gasket - 92055-0086
Oil pan drain bolt - 92066-0079
Oil pan drain bolt with magnet - MP-01, MP-11 for the rear drive http://www.magneticdrainplug.com
Manual Cam Chain Tensioner APE KTZx14
(NOTE: This replaces the self adjusting cam chain tensioner and eliminates the 'startup rattle'. Downside is that you will have to keep an ear out on the adjustment. There is no track record on how long the adjustment holds. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! )

Replacement Exhaust Header Nuts - McMaster-Carr 93795A230 M8.0 Oval Locknut. Use with stainless steel washers.
Fuji-lok nuts for the Exhaust Header - Use with stainless washers
Note: the '10 manual specs 13ft/lbs for torque. This should apply to the other manuals as well.
Oil filler cap - 16115-1009 (note: Fits the rear drive as well)

Tools
Oil filter wrench - 57001-1249
Pennzoil oil filter wrench 2"-3 3/4" 51mm to 95mm
JIS +2 Driver (for the 'flies) http://www.ikaswebshop.com/hodjis2dr12s.html
15mm drag link tool for rear drive filler plug http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=drag+link
Stem nut socket from CycleDude
Steering stem top nut - 12mm hex 79.7ft lbs torque
Front wheel removal - 13/16" spark plug socket, reversed
Rear Axle - 27mm socket for the large nut, 14mm hex wrench for the left side

Final Drive
Filler cap o-ring - 92055-049 (31mm)

Swing arm
OEM Left hand side torque arm bolt is 10x63mm with part number 92153B (used to be 92153A)
OEM Right hand side torque arm bolt is 10x67mm with part number 92153C (used to be 92153A)
The flanged lock nut part number is the same for both bolts 10mm diameter nut with part number 92210B

Electrical
Battery for FOBs - CR2025 3v (watch battery)
Battery for TPS - CR2032L/F1N http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=P668-ND
Other sources for TPS batteries https://octopart.com/cr-2032%2Fvcn-panasonic-19088802
Or P660-ND check both of them out on digikey's site.

12V bike battery sources
Stock battery FTZ14-BS Furakawa - dealer sourced most likely (expensive)
AGM MBTX12U 14AH by MotoBatt (I have this and it's working fine, no issues)
Shorai battery LFX21A6-BS12 Tender SHO-BMS01
Battery Stuff http://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYTX14-BS.html

Bodywork
Left side cowling parts 39156-031, 033, 034, 0371, 0395
Battery cover stud rubber grommet - Frame fittings, p/n 92075-1011, damper

Levers
Brake - ASV BRC511
Clutch - ASV BRC511

Key Blanks
Key Blank - ILCO KW14R Warning, this may only work for the 08 model locks and there appears to be two types of keys in use. The KW14R only works with one of them. If your key starts with an A it will be a "Silca KW14R" keyblank. If it starts with a B it will be an "Silca KW14" keyblank.
Works ok on the bags but you will need to not insert it the whole way for the seat as it doesn't have the stop the Kawi key does. http://www.mysecuritypro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=663
Ron Ayers has new Oven Knob keys. A and B style key. If you look at your key in the fob it will have a number that starts with either A or B.
27008-0050 Style A
27008-0051 Style B

TPMS sensor part numbers
US bikes 315 Mhz (green). Note that EUR, AU, SEA use 434Mhz sensors (blue). MY (have no clue what MY stands for) sensors 315Mhz (red)
2008-2013 21176-0125
2014-2015 21176-0748

955i Tiger Fuel Injection O-Ring Replacements

I found some o-rings at the local NAPA that come mighty close to the mystery sized ones that Triumph won't tell anyone what spec they are or provide any more, so I rebuilt the fuel injection rail with all new o-rings.

The chubby lower o-rings came from Amazon (I'm cobbling together parts from wherever I can). Sure would be nice if Triumph would release detailed specs on the older Hinckley Triumphs they don't support anymore.

While I was going over things I thought I'd have a look at the throttle sensor. There was some speculation (based on the similar 955i Sprint) that there is an o-ring that disintegrates which causes connection problems, but the Tiger doesn't have one. I know because I took one off one of the spare injector bodies I had and looked.

Will it work? I'm going to give it a go this week and see since it's weirdly warm out and all the snow has melted. What do I expect? It not to work, but maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised.

With the Tiger reassembled I figured I'd do the oil change I didn't get around to on the Concours 14 before I parked it for the winter, only to discover oil all over the side of the engine, so the bikes have been swapped and now I'm looking at a deep dive into the GTR1400. It looks like it might be the valve cover and since I haven't done the valves on it yet I'm going for it.

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: Patience with C14 Forks

 When I was younger I tended to struggle against time, but as I get older I'm finding that if I slow down and let go of that youthful mania I can see things that get missed and this makes me a better mechanic. Taking on the leaky forks on my 2010 Kawasaki Concours 14/1400GTR also seemed like something too complicated to get into in the garage after the much simpler right-way-up forks on the Tiger (which I get in and out of easily).

Like everything else on the Concours, the front forks are complicated. These would be the first USD (upside down) forks I've done after many right way up forks on dirt bikes and the Tiger, so I went looking for how-tos and was met with a wall of incompetence, both in video making and mechanical ineptitude. So bad were some of them that it made the job seem impossible, but it really isn't.

I finally found Coulda Shoulad Woulda's C14 Fork Seal video and it was just the thing. Yes, I'm starting you 25 seconds in because that's one hell of an intro:

Nicely edited and concise (other than that intro), oh that all youtubers took heed. After watching I believed it possible, so out to the garage I went... and was promptly beaten by the bolts on top of the forks which would not move despite a trip to Canadian Tire to buy the long 24mm socket needed to get on them properly. That socket promptly started rounding them. I suspect whoever was in there last didn't believe in torque wrenches.

Everything I needed for the job was $200 taxes
in on Amazon. The tools seem well made and
worked. The fork seal driver also came in
handy when clamping the fork on the bench.

I applied heat and kept at it, but they would not move, so after lots of sweating and swearing I
stepped away and emailed the local Kawasaki dealer, who I tend to stay away from because whenever I contacted them they give the impression that I've interrupted and annoyed them. A terse reply the next morning that was not forthcoming with the details I needed showed that their service department remains firmly of the mindset that they are doing me a favour whenever I pay them exorbitant fees for service. I finally got out of them that it's $375 to service forks out of the bike and they would only use Kawasaki parts so the seals I'd bought for the job I'd have to buy over again at their markup. A conservative estimate for the job would be $500 in service, parts and taxes, but probably more.

That took me back to the garage where, to my astonishment, the tops came off easily after a few sharp taps with a big socket and some more heat applied. If at first you don't succeed, step away and perhaps after cooling down you've already won. As Classic Bike says, 'heat and patience.'

With the tops loose I was off to the races. I applied some
intentionality to my process and decided to do a fork each day after work rather than trying to do them all at once. This paid dividends because the first fork was a learning process, and when I left it for the night I thought it over and the second one went twice as quickly with fewer problems. Taking your time and moving intentionally is an underappreciated skill in our manic, modern world.

The process of dismantling the forks is fairly straightforward, but requires some jiggery pokery around compressing the spring to get to the internals. Here are the order of operations assuming you've already removed the front fender and wheel:

• Loosen the fork tops while they're on the bike! This isn't easy as the handlebars are in the way. I removed them for access. I also found the metal quite soft. I went out and got a long 24mm socket but it made a mess of them. A well placed vice grip while clamped on the bench did the job better.
• Remove the fairing plastic cover over the front wheel
• Undo the plastic cover at the top of the fork tree (three 10mm bolts) and remove the horn as well which is attached to it
• Loosen the lower fork clamps
• Loosen the upper fork clamps
• Slide out the forks (this was also a pain in the ass - I ended up using a long screwdriver to gently open the clamps a bit to let the forks drop

That gets you to the point where you can start working on the forks themselves.

• Undo the loosened fork tops (if you're luckier than me and the cock womble who was in there last didn't tighten them to death)
• Install your fork compression tools. There are holes in the plastic spacer at the top for you to put a rod in and use the axle mount at the bottom for the other rod

It looks complicated but this is just the fork compressor clamp and a bottom rod provided in the Amazon kit being compressed with rachet straps. 

•  With the spring compressed you will see the nut at the bottom that holds on that top piece
• Pull up on the top piece and you should have just enough space to slip the spring holder piece (also in the Amazon kit) in place. This allows you to loosen the bottom nut and spin off the top

• With that off you can release the rachet straps and remove the spring
• Remove the tube from the centre of the unit. It's fragile so put it somewhere safe and then don't forget to reinstall it (don't ask)
• Empty the oil into a container that lets you see how much is in there. Be sure to work the internals to get everything out

The side with the leak (on the right) had less in it, but both were low. There is supposed to be 550ml of oil in each fork. The dark green stuff on the left looked to be completely different to the brown stuff on the left. I'd guess whoever tried to get into these last couldn't get into one of them and just serviced the one they could - which is nuts!

• Separate the outer fork from the inners
• This lets you pop off the outer seal
• The inner is held in by a retaining ring that's easy to pop out
• Ease the fork seal out of the tube (I applied some heat as the old ones were rock hard - this softened them up a bit and made removal easier

• With everything cleaned up, slide the outer seal on the inner fork making sure it's the right way around
• Install the inner seal in the large (upper because these are USD) fork tube. Doing this while it's separated is much easier than trying to hammer it in when they're attached. I had no trouble getting the inner fork tube on once it was installed (the holes in the inner shaft are chamfered so sliding them on is straightforward
• Don't forget to install the retaining ring after you've got the inner seal in (letter side down because these are USD - the 'open' side should be facing the oil).
• Install the inner fork in the outer with new seals
• Put the spring back
• Put the plastic bit on top and rebuild your spring compressor (don't forget the metal cap)
• loosen the nut on the threaded inner rod and use a matching bolt to give you something to pull it up with when you've got it back together
• Compress it all down again with the ratchet straps
• Pull the top using that bolt you put on and slip the metal piece to hold it in place
• Remove the bolt you used to make it reachable and tighten the nut on the inner threaded piece that's held by the tool you slid in to hold it compressed
• Insert that inner rod you put aside earlier (no, really, remember to do that)
• Screw on the fork top piece and tighten to the lower nut to it
• Double check that you've put all the bits back (inner rod, metal cap on top of the plastic top piece)
• Press down on the compressor that's in the holes in the plastic and slip the retaining metal tool out
• Release the rachet straps
• Put 550ml of fork oil in each. I used 15 weight Maxima
• Work the fork to get any bubbles out (I also let them sit overnight to let things settle)
• Spin the outer fork onto the now attached fork top threaded piece
• Reinstall the forks. The lower bolts said 30 Nm but they still gave me headaches when one sheered in the tube. I stepped away and sorted it out the next day when I wasn't annoyed.

This seems like a handful but if you work your way through it one step at a time it all makes sense. The first fork took me a couple of hours to take my time going through. The second one took less than an hour. Once you've done this once you'll feel able to do it again. Give Coulda Shoulda Woulda's video a watch and you'll have what you need to get it done... and be patient!

Yep, that's a broken lower fork clamp bolt sheered off inside the housing. I ended up getting it out by getting needle nose pliers on the end sticking out and spinning it out that way. This job fought me at every step, but it's all back together with matching (clean) oil in both forks and everything one tightened (to spec) not too tight. One tight, not too tight...

When things went wrong (and the did... often) on this job, I got myself to a reasonable stopping point and stepped away for the day. When I came back the seemingly insurmountable problems (stuck fork tops, broken bolt in the lower clamp) all seemed to have answers.

The old seals were rock hard. I'm curious to see how nice the forks feel with the new ones.

Vice grips did a better job on top fork removal than the specially purchased long 24mm socket did. Applying heat was easy in the vice and the seal driver tool was handy for clamping the fork off the bike.

Removing the handlebars didn't help with loosening the tops of the forks. Hat and vice grips on the bench finally did the trick. I'm going to try the handlebards without the bar risers for a while and see if it feels ok.

***

I've had the bike out a few times and the feel in the front end is fantastic. I'm getting feedback like I've never had before and it's leading to a much more enjoyable ride, both when taking corners and navigating poor pavement; transformative isn't too strong a word.

When I put it back together I dropped the forks in the front tree about 1/4 of an inch, so the bike feels a bit more on the nose. The other thing I did was take the risers out of the handle bars. These had me more upright in the seat, but I left the 'angle wedges' in and the steering feels more immediate than it did without really affecting my geometry. 

This servicing has been well worth it, but so has the opportunity to reconsider the geometry on the front. Right now the GTR1400 is as perfect as I've ever had it, and just as it's about to hit 45k.