Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 2.2 - the cams are coming out

 I was (of course) hoping that the valves would all be in spec, but after a first round of measurements that is (of course) not the case, so this open heart surgery is going a step deeper: the camshafts are coming out. No point in getting in this far unless I sort everything while I'm in here.

Concours 14/1400GTR exhaust valves need to have between 0.19mm and 0.24mm of clearance. The intake valves need 0.12mm to 0.17mm. Looking at the notes below, I'm out of spec (tight) on most of them, making me wonder if anyone has ever been in here before. This one has 45k kms on it but it was semi-dormant when I found it. Most of the mileage was done in its first five years then it sat a lot. Alas, this is probably the case for most bikes.

Looking at this with red being too tight, white being in spec (anything on the edge I made pink), it's clear that C14s get tighter as they go: 

              Cyl 1                         Cyl 2                          Cyl 3                         Cyl 4

    EX  0.18   0.18               0.18    0.19                  0.19   0.19                0.19   0.22

    IN   0.14   0.14               0.14    0.14                  0.09   0.11                 0.11   0.12

Now that I've got a round of measurements, I'm going to do it all over again (that's what the pink notes are at the top of the handwritten bit above - the second round). Measure twice cut once and all that.

I hope to have confirmed everything this week and then I'll order shims to get everything in the sweet spot.  Or not...

It was -35 with windchill (-22C actual) last night. Will be again tonight, so I'm not going into the bloody garage!

Incredible that 5% of one millimeter is the resolution this machine works within, but what amazes me more is that even at a fraction of a millimetre I'm still sticking a bit of metal (like a caveman) in to measure these fine details. Why don't motorcycles make use of the mechanical precision used in car engines for the past quarter century and automatically adjust valves? Good question.

Like a caveman...

The middle ones are tricky to get to and the covers and various plumbing don't help even on the edge cylinders. That Moto Guzzi is looking more and more appealing, though it won't be the rocketship that the Kwak is.

Cam timing cover off to spin the motor and line up TDC for cylinders 1 and 4 which lets you check all the clearances.

Note the mark on the left side of the wheel where the cover gasket goes on - that's your timing mark.

The plumbing over the cams is something else.

The 0.127mm feeler gauge doing the business between the cam and that shim underneath. Replacing the shim with a smaller one puts the gap back in spec.

Using the bent and tapered bits I double checked each space. And will again before I commit to buying shims.

Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 2.1 - checking clearances

 I put together a page with the details I've gleaned from COG's documentation and the shop manual to keep track of my measurements. I've got two sets of feeler guages because I'm suspicious like that and always want a second opinion. It's particularly important in this case because having to go back in there again if a mistake is made isn't (at all) what I want to do.

With cylinder one top dead centre (TDC) and the cams both pointing out to offer access for the guages, I had a go at number one cylinder yesterday.

Cams up and out on cylinder one (left side of motor) - it took me a few turns of the engine to get it lined up right and start getting good measurements. It doesn't hurt to do this two or three times so you're sure the came is at maximum gap and you're getting good numbers.

This cover on the lower right side of the engine is removed with 8mm bolts. It's a 17mm M8 that you throw a big rachet on and turn the engine. Direction of travel is noted on the timing wheel as are marks for TDC for cylinders 1 and 4. You can do half the valves with C1 TDC and the other half with C4 TDC.

Cam timing cover came off with minimal fuss and just a drop of oil.

My suspicion of cheaply made tools causes me to have backups. In this case the tappered ones are metric first and offer a finer degree between fits.

I'll do the rest today. As many said it would be, Cylinder one appears tight. Exhaust valves should have between 0.19-0.24mm of clearance. I can just get a 0.18 in there and the 0.203 wouldn't fit in either cylinder one or two's exhaust valves.

Ran the propane heater for 20 minutes before getting started. Made for a much more comfrotable experience.

Keeping things in order - the valve cover bolts numbered and in their 'custom' holder.
 

With the forray into 'vintage' motorcycles last year my sockets were muddied with imperial and whitworth bits. They've been relegated to a lower drawer. I think I'm sticking with metric bikes for the forseable future. If I take another dive into vintage it'll be when I'm retired and have the time to navigate all the complexities. 

Kawasaki Concours C14 1400GTR Valve Check Part 1 - getting in there

It took 2 sessions about about 5 hours to get
to the point where I can actually remove the
valve cover and check clearances.

This is not the work of an afternoon. To get into the valves on a C14 takes patience. In addition to the advice about staying organized and documenting the process, I'd suggest a 'move the ball down the field' approach. As long as you get a bit more done each time you'll get there, but don't be in a rush and expect to have to come back multiple times. With this approach I didn't get as frustrated as I sometimes do in the garage. It being the middle of Canadian winter with no chance to ride any time soon helps too. Nothing stresses me out more than watching one of my few riding opportunities each year pass me by because I don't have a bike ready to go (though I hope the Tiger is).

I'm finally at a point where I can actually remove the valve cover. I won't lie. Yesterday as I was wrestling the air suction valve gear out of the ridiculously tight space I was wondering who the masochist was who designed this and had a little day dream about cold cocking them.

It's cold in the garage when it's double digits minus outside, even with the heater on, so hand cramps were an issue as I worked stuck fasteners loose. Whoever was last in there tightened the frame bolts well past spec, and even the small bolts holding in the air suction valves were a fight, having to be turned out a quarter turn at a time with a hex key.

Here's the order of operations so far:

Getting Cylinder Head Cover Access

Fairings

I've been into them before for various reasons. They're complicated, but came off with a minimal of swearing.

Once I had them all off access to the valve cover became seeable, but so is the mad amount of plumbing that surrounds them. Getting the fairings off is the tip of the iceberg on this job.

Frame connectors

There are some easy to get ones that you can remove once the fairings are off. 12mm bolts and a 5mm hex that connect the motor to the back and front of the frame. Whenever you think that's enough, Kawasaki Heavy Industries overengineered another piece. This thing really is built like a nuclear sub.

With those off I took the coolant reserve tank out of the way (two 10mm bolts). So far I've gotten deep into this with just 10 and 12mm sockets and 5mm hex bolts (not counting all the fasteners on the fairings). The mechanical fasteners are considerately consistent (unlike Triumphs). I'm going to have to source other fairing fasteners as the cheapo Amazon ones I got all broke when removed.

There are two more frame connectors (because more of everything was how the Conours was designed), one on each side and held in by two 12mm bolts and a 5mm hex bolt. Whoever did these last tightened them to within an inch of their lives, but I got them out. The three fasteners are visible once you've got the fairings off, but once you've got them out the piece itself needs to be slid out from the plastic radiator shroud. I've been warming things up with the heat gun to prevent cracking as I bend plastic and rubber things.

The right side one is easy to access and if you've taken the fairings off, easy to remove. The pipe you see left of the top arrow is the air suction system. Getting that out is a right *@&#er.

The left side one not so much. Note the heat gun blowing warm air on the rubbers and plastics to make things easier to remove (helps with the electrical connectors too of which there are many).

With the frame pieces off it was a matter of removing the pipes and connectors that crowd the top of the valve cover. It's tight in there and even disconnecting electrical components was a real struggle with my non-Japanese sized hands.

You can't fit a 3/8 rachet and bit in that gap, so the air suction valve covers (which you can't even see in this because they're  buried under piles of electronics, coolant pipes and anything else they could stuff in there), need to be removed with tiny quarter turns with a 5mm hex key. Take your time, try not to get frustrated. You eventually get in there.

The ultimate goal it to get the rubber cover over the top of the engine out of the way.

First look at the valve cover, but lots of other gubbins have to come out before I could get that rubber cover folded out of the way.

Air Suction Valve

This consists of a rubber hose going up into the airbox above and connecting not one but two air suction valves (more is always better, right?). These are held in by 5mm hex bolts that nasty to get out - so nasty that I'm heading out to Canadian Tire to look at low profile rachet options (the 3/8 bit on the rachet won't fit in there and doing these by hands is painful).

With the air suction valve(s) - there are (of course) two of them, out you can see the cover, but that cam sensor in the middle of this pic has to come out too (8mm bolt holding it it).

Cylinder Head Cover Removal

• Remove fairings
• Remove Air Suction Valve (see Air Suction Valve Removal)
• Stick Coils (see Stick Coil Removal in the Electrical System chapter)

The stick coils for the spark plugs are in there tight too and require some careful convincing to come out. I'm probably the first person in here certainly since the bike started getting underused ten years ago and possibly ever.

With the Inlet Camshaft Position Sensor removed the valve cover was finally free and came off (out the right side) revealing the fantastically complicated top end.

Next up will be turning the engine around with a rachet and getting an idea of where the valves are in terms of clearances.

Kawasaki C14 Concours / 1400GTR Valve Adjustment Research Part 2

The last post included online research on getting into the C14 to resolve an oil leak and check the valves. Inline four cylinder engines are a nightmare for valve checks with everything buried deep in the bike between the frame and lots of valves to check. Getting into this has me dreaming of a Moto Guzzi or BMW with sticky outie cylinders that make this sort of regular maintenance easy. On the upside, the C14 only needs the valves checked every 25k or so.

Of course those twin options don't have anything like the performance of the 1400GTR. I had to remind myself that this is a performance machine. I enjoy being on the fastest thing in a hundred kilometers and you have to put some time in on it to keep it purring.

The Concours Owners Group is well worth connecting with if you find yourself with-Concours (I joined and got the t-shirt). You get gems like this from COG's tech pages. Corrections to the shop manual - pretty handy!

First time valve check:

https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/first-valve-adjustment.53783/https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/first-valve-adjustment.53783/

"The job is not difficult but is tedious and no short cuts are advised." - indeed.

Shims: https://fortnine.ca/en/pro-x-valve-shim-refill about $15 each (!)

 9.48mm diameter shims

Can't buy them at the dealer which leads many people to wonder how the dealer does valve adjustments (or if they just say they do) when a job like this can cost well over a grand with 8+ hours in it.

Valve Clearance Check Video #1 from Moto-Resto Machine & Repair on YouTube: https://youtu.be/RvQjEvCSGvI?si=L56j3YAc2c4cIye7

Keep the slider handy to dodge around how his dog is doing or when he's going to get groceries and you get the whole process.

The series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvQjEvCSGvI&list=PL1oMvckfLIJGzkYHWXiDk8kN_IOBSI3jT

Chattier and off topic more than I like in a video, but he does get into the thing. Valve cover comes out the right side after removing a f**ton of bits and pieces. Bag 'em and tag 'em indeed! Looks like the radiator and fuel tank don't go anywhere (you access the top of the engine from the sides).

Lots of people saying it's time consuming but not difficult. Pace yourself and stay organized seems to be the most common advice.

• do this in stages
• don't rush
• take notes and many photos so you have an outside chance of getting it back together again
• have a big sheet to put bits on
• have ziplocks and a marker handy - bag 'em and tag 'em
• first time is likely 10+ hours, second time is half that, but after the first one they seldom go out again (!)

I'm OK if this is the only time I ever do this on a C14. 😊

Other Concours 14 Engine Technical details:

Items ZG1400CA ∼ CD, ZG1400DA

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @1 100 r/min (rpm)

Spark Plug NGK CR9EIA-9

Cylinder Numbering Method Left to right, 1-2-3-4

Firing Order 1-2-4-3

Valve Timing:

Inlet:

Open 17° (BTDC)

Close 75° (ABDC)

Duration 272°

Exhaust:

Open 52° (BBDC)

Close 22° (ATDC)

Duration 254°

Lubrication System Forced lubrication (wet sump with cooler)

Engine Oil:

Type API SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2

Viscosity SAE10W-40

Capacity 4.7 L (5.0 US qt)

Adjustment Shims

Thickness     Part Number    Mark

1.750             92180-1212    –25

1.775             92180-0221    –23

1.800             92180-1211     –20

1.825             92180-0222 –18

1.850             92180-1210 –15

1.875             92180-0223 –13

1.900             92180-1209 –10

1.925             92180-0224 –8

1.950             92180-1208 –5

1.975             92180-0225 –3

2.000             92025-1870 0

2.025             92180-0209 3

2.050             92025-1871 5

2.075             92180-0210 8

2.100             92025-1872 10

2.125             92180-0211 13

2.150 92025-1873 15

2.175 92180-0212 18

2.200 92025-1874 20

2.225 92180-0213 23

2.250 92025-1875 25

2.275 92180-0214 28

2.300 92025-1876 30

2.325 92025-0215 33

2.350 92025-1877 35

2.375 92025-1058 38

2.400 92025-1878 40

2.425 92025-1982 43

2.450 92025-1879 45

2.475 92025-1983 48

2.500 92025-1880 50

2.525 92025-1984 53

2.550 92025-1881 55

2.575 92025-1985 58

2.600 92025-1882 60

2.625 92180-1059 63

2.650 92025-1883 65

2.675 92180-1194 68

2.700 92025-1884 70

2.725 92180-1195 73

2.750 92025-1885 75

NOTE  There are two kinds of marks [A] [B] in the shim.

Kawasaki C14 Concours / 1400GTR Valve Clearance Research & Resources

 

Research

Concours 14 parts: https://www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/parts/2010/ZG1400CAF

Fuel tank sits on the frame:

Cylinder cover parts and diagram. Isn't that fantastically complicated?

The battery box slots into the side of the frame. Not sure if I have to remove it to get to the cylinder head. Honestly, with that much frame around it, how on earth do you get into the valve cover at all?

Airbox diagram: it slots into the frame on the other side from the battery. Again, not sure if that all has to come out.

Based on what I'm seeing here I need to take a lot of photos as I dismantle and keep everything on a clean sheet in order next to the bike so I have a chance of getting it all back together again. Organization will be key!

***

Hints at problems with sealing the new gasket? https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/valve-cover-gasket.53892/

Murph's Kits parts: https://murphskits.com/c14-valve-adjustment-kit-1/ promises to provide all the bits you need (that the dealer parts counter guy won't bother to tell you about):

Oil leaks become an issue unless you replace all the o-rings as well as including a new gasket? Might as well change the spark plugs and fuel filter while in there.  Ends up being $338 (CAD) for all of it, plus another forty bucks in shipping - still much cheaper than parts from the local dealer and with helpful additions so I'm not left with a leaky mess. I've got Murph's Kit bits all over the C14 and trust them. The set is ordered.

***

Good list of parts numbers for C14: https://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1650.0

2010 C14 Service manual - 99924-1431-01

AIR FILTERS
Air Filter Element - 11013-0014
BMC Air Filter - 466/04
K&N Air Filter - KA-1406

Fuel
Fuel Pump filter/strainer/whatever 49019-0013. From a 2013 Kawasaki 750 side-by-side (not sure what they are calling it).
Fuel Pump O-ring - 670E5075
Fuel pump (fuel pump housing would need to be disassembled) http://www.fuelpumpfactory.com/Kawasaki-fuel-pump-Concours-14-s/6323.htm

WASHERS & Push Rivets
Final Drive Crush Washer - 92022-1086
Final Drive O-Ring for Filler Cap - 92025-1735
Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer - 92065-097
Water pump coolant drain crush washer - 92200-0498 Adept Power Sports

Fairing screw nylon washers:
5.3mm ID X 11.5mm OD X .5mm thick - 92200-0006
10.4mm ID X 19mm OD X .5mm thick - 92200-0157

Windshield mounting screw nylon washers:
10.3mm ID X 17mm OD X 1.0mm thick - 92200-0380
Nylon Push Rivet (two sizes) - 92039-0051 & 99039-0051
Push rivet under the windscreen - 92039-0048
Motosport.com Bolt Brand 6mm Nylon Push Rivet - 2005-6RIV (These may not work)
Balkamp part number 665-1446 (pkg of 9) available at NAPA for (rivet 92039-0051)
Hillman push-in Nylon Rivet - 1/4 inch H#881216 (Lowes) barcode 0823671607, for the top of dash
Grainger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Push-In-Rivet-5MUF8 (not sure if these fit)
Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Fender-Rivets/dp/B0039LEU0I (not sure if these fit)


MC OIL FILTERS Designed for the bike
Kawasaki 16097-0004
K&N KN-303
Mobil1 M1MC-134 (crosses to a K&N KN-303)
Hiflofiltro HF303/303C
Amsoil EaOM103
Emgo 10-82222
Fram PH6017A
Parts Unlimited 010035X

Oil Filters others use (other than OEM fitment - use at own risk)
A/C Delco - PF2135
Amsoil - 24942 (I think this is a Wix filter)
Napa Gold - 1358
Napa - PS1358 (black and costs less)
Purolator ML16817 (made for MC, not sure if it fits our bikes)
Purolator Pure One - PL14610 (Note: The Purolator website does not recommend using cage filters on MCs)
Purolator Pure One - 2.5"- PL14612 (Note: The Purolator website does not recommend using cage filters on MCs)
Wix - short: 51358; long: 51356
Champion 7317 (same as SuperTech)
Mobil 1 M1-110

BULBS
Tail License Plate Bulb - 92069-1055, 5007, R5W (5 watt)
Front/ Rear Turn Signal Bulbs - 92069-1125
Turn signal bulbs are 7507A bulbs (BAU15s base)
Headlight Bulb 12V-60/55W - 92069-1002 (standard H4)
Small headlight Bulb 12V/5W - 92069-1016
City lights are either a 2825 (5w) or a 2886 (6w)
City lights (LED, inverted cone, white) 194 or 168

Switches
SPST Waterproof Miniature Rocker Switch (On-Off) 16A Green 12V (also available in red) .921" Long x .685" Wide x .551" Deep Part Number: NTE-54-204W $5.40 each https://shop.vetcosurplus.com/

TIRES/Wheels
Front Tire Size - 120/70ZR17
Rear Tire Size - 190/50ZR17
Front bearing seal (08/09) 92049-0050
Rear bearing seal (08/09) 92049-1061
Wheel Bearings (F) - 6005UU oem, or 6005 2RS1 or 6005 2RSH (SKF replacement numbers)
Wheel Bearings (R) - 6304UUC3 oem, or 6304 2RS1 or 6304 2RSH (SKF replacement) the "C3" designation is a standard for precision, SKF bearings are normally C3 unless specified otherwise...
Rear Wheel Bearing All Balls - 25-1353 (Comes with one seal - you need one kit - it has two bearings)
90 Degree retrofit valve stems for the original tire sensors: Honda part VALVE ASSY., RIM 42755-MCA-R31 2014 Goldwing

Steering
Steering Stem Bearings - All Balls Racing -Tapered roller bearing and seal kit for steering stem (steering head) C-14
Part No. 22-1039 Cost: $47.95 http://www.allballsracing.com/

BRAKE STUFF
Front pad Assembly - 43082-0071 (2 EA) (08-09)
Front pad Assembly - 43082-0112 (2 EA) (2010)
Rear pad Assembly - 43082-0055 (1 EA)
Rear brake pads - EBC FA254 (Kevlar) or FA254HH (Sintered)
Front brake pads - EBC FA417/4HH (Sintered)
Front pads - Ferodo FDB2220ST (mcstuff.com p/n 454-1071, requires two sets)
Rear pads - Ferodo FDB2111P (p/n 454-2682) (evidence is these don't last as long or bite as well as other brands)
Carbone Lorraine - 1177SBK5 (front x 2), 2813RX rear
Front ABS brake line - Galfer SS FK003D625-3
Caliper rebuild kits - https://brakecrafters.com/product/caliper-seal-kit-bcnr0036/

Engine Parts
Spark Plugs - CR9EIA replaced by CR9EIA-9, gap .036 IRIDIUM!
Valve cover gasket - 11061-0263
Pulsing Cover gasket - 92055-0086
Oil pan drain bolt - 92066-0079
Oil pan drain bolt with magnet - MP-01, MP-11 for the rear drive http://www.magneticdrainplug.com
Manual Cam Chain Tensioner APE KTZx14
(NOTE: This replaces the self adjusting cam chain tensioner and eliminates the 'startup rattle'. Downside is that you will have to keep an ear out on the adjustment. There is no track record on how long the adjustment holds. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! )

Replacement Exhaust Header Nuts - McMaster-Carr 93795A230 M8.0 Oval Locknut. Use with stainless steel washers.
Fuji-lok nuts for the Exhaust Header - Use with stainless washers
Note: the '10 manual specs 13ft/lbs for torque. This should apply to the other manuals as well.
Oil filler cap - 16115-1009 (note: Fits the rear drive as well)

Tools
Oil filter wrench - 57001-1249
Pennzoil oil filter wrench 2"-3 3/4" 51mm to 95mm
JIS +2 Driver (for the 'flies) http://www.ikaswebshop.com/hodjis2dr12s.html
15mm drag link tool for rear drive filler plug http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=drag+link
Stem nut socket from CycleDude
Steering stem top nut - 12mm hex 79.7ft lbs torque
Front wheel removal - 13/16" spark plug socket, reversed
Rear Axle - 27mm socket for the large nut, 14mm hex wrench for the left side

Final Drive
Filler cap o-ring - 92055-049 (31mm)

Swing arm
OEM Left hand side torque arm bolt is 10x63mm with part number 92153B (used to be 92153A)
OEM Right hand side torque arm bolt is 10x67mm with part number 92153C (used to be 92153A)
The flanged lock nut part number is the same for both bolts 10mm diameter nut with part number 92210B

Electrical
Battery for FOBs - CR2025 3v (watch battery)
Battery for TPS - CR2032L/F1N http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=P668-ND
Other sources for TPS batteries https://octopart.com/cr-2032%2Fvcn-panasonic-19088802
Or P660-ND check both of them out on digikey's site.

12V bike battery sources
Stock battery FTZ14-BS Furakawa - dealer sourced most likely (expensive)
AGM MBTX12U 14AH by MotoBatt (I have this and it's working fine, no issues)
Shorai battery LFX21A6-BS12 Tender SHO-BMS01
Battery Stuff http://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYTX14-BS.html

Bodywork
Left side cowling parts 39156-031, 033, 034, 0371, 0395
Battery cover stud rubber grommet - Frame fittings, p/n 92075-1011, damper

Levers
Brake - ASV BRC511
Clutch - ASV BRC511

Key Blanks
Key Blank - ILCO KW14R Warning, this may only work for the 08 model locks and there appears to be two types of keys in use. The KW14R only works with one of them. If your key starts with an A it will be a "Silca KW14R" keyblank. If it starts with a B it will be an "Silca KW14" keyblank.
Works ok on the bags but you will need to not insert it the whole way for the seat as it doesn't have the stop the Kawi key does. http://www.mysecuritypro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=663
Ron Ayers has new Oven Knob keys. A and B style key. If you look at your key in the fob it will have a number that starts with either A or B.
27008-0050 Style A
27008-0051 Style B

TPMS sensor part numbers
US bikes 315 Mhz (green). Note that EUR, AU, SEA use 434Mhz sensors (blue). MY (have no clue what MY stands for) sensors 315Mhz (red)
2008-2013 21176-0125
2014-2015 21176-0748

955i Tiger Fuel Injection O-Ring Replacements

I found some o-rings at the local NAPA that come mighty close to the mystery sized ones that Triumph won't tell anyone what spec they are or provide any more, so I rebuilt the fuel injection rail with all new o-rings.

The chubby lower o-rings came from Amazon (I'm cobbling together parts from wherever I can). Sure would be nice if Triumph would release detailed specs on the older Hinckley Triumphs they don't support anymore.

While I was going over things I thought I'd have a look at the throttle sensor. There was some speculation (based on the similar 955i Sprint) that there is an o-ring that disintegrates which causes connection problems, but the Tiger doesn't have one. I know because I took one off one of the spare injector bodies I had and looked.

Will it work? I'm going to give it a go this week and see since it's weirdly warm out and all the snow has melted. What do I expect? It not to work, but maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised.

With the Tiger reassembled I figured I'd do the oil change I didn't get around to on the Concours 14 before I parked it for the winter, only to discover oil all over the side of the engine, so the bikes have been swapped and now I'm looking at a deep dive into the GTR1400. It looks like it might be the valve cover and since I haven't done the valves on it yet I'm going for it.

Triumph 955i fuel injector O-ring research

Tiger's still not working (see previous post). Here's my best guess: the new fuel pump has caused the old O-rings in the fuel line to leak causing a vacuum leak, so I'm digging for new O-rings, but of course Triumph doesn't sell them anymore and seems to go out of their way to not tell you what size they are. Wouldn't it be nice if a manufacture who don't support their bikes after only 20 years at least open sourced the specs so the aftermarket could pick them up?

Anyway, off to the internet I go to research! Here are the notes:

https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/triumph-2003-955i-cutting-out-when-throttle-blipped.27324/page-3

"There is a O ring on the Tps (throttle position sensor) that gets worn and swells causing a voltage delay when closing the throttle causing the incorrect signal to the ECU.

Cure? Simply remove this O ring haha, So i did this last night and took her for a test ride this morning whilst picking up some essentials. BINGO!"

Part 23 = T3600053 | O ring
Part 4 = Throttle potentiometer Part Number: T1290500 - but it doesn't look like it has an O-ring involved in it, so that advice is suspect.

12 = O ring. Rail, Part Number: T360005313 = O Ring, Injector, Upper Part Number: T1245016
14 = O Ring, Injector, Lower Part Number: T1240806

Store: The O-Ring Store https://www.theoringstore.com/store/

Parts: V3.00x008 V75 (upper), and V2.40x009.6 (lower) - those are the dimensions (upper = 3

Suggestions from forums on potential issues: "Don't be surprised if you find that the end of your fuel line is actually cracking at the fitting. I chased O rings for a while and discovered that to be my source instead."

"the union (which is plastic) was the culprit. It was cracked and just giving it a wee jiggle made it worse"https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/955-sprint-fuel-o-ring-rubber-sizes.163915/
Fuel Fitting O-Rings

* Triumph O RING, FUEL PIPE CONNECTOR - T1240181
* Buna-N O-Rings - #9452K19 McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/

o SPECS
+ AS568A Dash Number: 010
+ Type: O-Ring
+ O-Ring Type: Standard
+ Width: 1/16"
+ Actual Width: .070"
+ Inside Diameter: 5/16"
+ Actual Inside Diameter: .301"
+ Outside Diameter: 7/16"
+ Actual Outside Diameter: .441"
+ Material: Buna-N
+ Durometer: Hard
+ Durometer Shore: Shore A: 70
+ Temperature Range: -35° to +250°F
+ Color: Black
* Viton O-Rings - #9464K16 McMaster-Carr

o SPECS
+ AS568A Dash Number: 011
+ Typ:e O-Ring
+ System of Measurement: Inch
+ Width: 1/16" (1.5875mm)
+ Inside Diameter: 5/16" (7.938mm)
+ Outside Diameter: 7/16" (11.113mm)
+ Material: Viton
+ Durometer: Hard
+ Durometer Shore: Shore A: 75
+ Temperature Range: -15° to +400°F
+ Color: Black
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38145

NAPA cross reference on this O-ring is:
Part Number: BK 7272011
Product Line: Balkamp
Dimensions : 5/16" I.D. x 7/16" O.D. x 1/16" W ( 7.938mm I.D. x 11.113mm O.D. x 1.5875mm W )
Material Type : Buna-N-Nitrile
SAE or Metric : SAE

QUESTION: are the upper and lower O-rings different (I'm assuming so because Triumph gave them different part numbers). - they are different thicknesses.

"The upper o-ring is approximately 15mm outer diameter with a 3.5mm cross-section, while the lower o-ring is about 15mm outer diameter with a 2mm cross-section"

2mm wide lower: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GJK53QJ/
3.5mm wide upper: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JWCD86K/
I'll give these a go and see how they do.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/156327987779 - that's high-larious! Forty bucks for an (as in ONE!) 20 year old O-ring! It ain't just the stealerships who cane you for these parts (when they deign to sell them).

https://theinjectorshop.com/en-ca/products/fuel-injectors-rebuild-repair-o-ring-kit-for-triumph-sprint-st-tiger-1050-2007-2009?_pos=1&_sid=00ce905cd&_ss=r

Hmm, do 1050 tigers use the same O-rings/injectors?

2007 Tiger 1050 parts:
O Ring, Injector, Upper T1245016 (same as 955i part)
O Ring, Injector, Lower T1245006 not - damn it!

Hey, Tim. Try using AI to solve this problem! Here's Perplexity.ai (on 'pro' mode!)

Adamantly and repeatedly incorrect. So much for HAL 9000 fixing the Tiger. I'll give those Amazon parts a try and let you know the results.

NAPA details: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/PSH71169 Part #: PSH 71169
.301 ID X .070 W (7.645mm ID X 1.778mm) why only show the inside diameter?

Deja vu: https://tkmotorcyclediaries.blogspot.com/2023/10/finding-your-way-around-oems-giving-up.html

Based on that the 15mm outside diameter 3.5 and 2mm thickness is a pretty close guess.
Why doesn't NAPA provide full dimensions: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/ELR429060? I'm going to run over to our local with the two O-rings and see if they'll help me match them up, but the site could be more helpful.

https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/fuel-line-union-o-rings.978549/

O-rings for the fuel fittings to the tank (they are stainless steel on mine): "they are A010 and if you are in the USA you can get a kit from Harbor Freight with a bunch of them for $10.  There is also a metric size I found that was a little thicker which might give you more confidence but require some petroleum jelly to get the fitting in. Don't be surprise d if you find that the end of your fuel line is actually cracking at the fitting. I chased O rings for a while and discovered that to be my source instead."